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Sixty-Two uses for a Bandana

There are many ways to use the average bandana.

#1. Better than an Archery Wrist Sling

Back in April I used a bandana to teach a teenager with no fingers how to shoot a bow.

We tried using a normal wrist sling attached to the bow, but determined that the wrist sling was not enough to hold the bow in place. The wrist sling worked fine to prevent him from dropping the bow, but he needed more than that as the bow still had too much range of motion and was not steady enough to be shot.

Instead we looped a bandana around the bow (where one's fingers would normally go) and then tied the bandana to his wrist. He was then able to brace the bow on his palm with no worry of dropping it and was able to hold it steady because the bandana prevented it from moving from his palm.

For his drawing hand he was able to pull the bowstring underneath the arrow (like someone doing 3 fingers under would) and release the bowstring after aiming.

A friend / fellow archer afterwards texted me to tell me they were really impressed I had dared to even teach him, as many other archery instructors would have simply refused to even try. He also complimented the teenager's courage, for he was one very brave young man to be learning in front of an audience of other archers despite his hindrance.

#2. Baby Diaper

Hopefully you never have to do this, but it is possible to fold a bandana and use it as a diaper for a baby.

I haven't had to do this yet, and hopefully never will, but it is a possible usage.

60 More Uses for a Bandana

Is Bowfishing and Spearfishing more merciful than regular fishing?

So I was on Facebook and saw someone post about the following book: "Carp Fishing in Canada", by Tony Benham and Fritz Vatter.

So I naturally asked:

"Does it have a section on bowfishing for carp?"

Perfectly natural question. After all, bowfishing and spearfishing for carp are popular and increasingly popular.

Ho boy...

One person responds that "Probably not. It's likely written by someone who enjoys and respects these fish."

As if to imply that people who are into bowfishing and spearfishing somehow don't respect the fish... which they totally do respect them.

So I pointed out that if the book doesn't have a chapter on bowfishing and spearfishing, then it is really not a complete guide is it? After all people who are into bowfishing and spearfishing are pretty enthusiastic about the sport, and thus qualify as a "sport enthusiast".

Next someone else says that "bowfishing is not a sporting way to target fish."

To which I respond that bowfishing and spearfishing is actually more merciful, because you kill the fish quickly as opposed to letting it slowly die while gasping for breath.

At least with bowfishing and spearfishing the fish dies instantly (or near instantly). Anything is better than a slow torturous death.

At which point they say their group promotes catch and release... At which point I explain that I eat every fish I catch, and I jokingly refer to catch and release as torturing a fish while taking a selfie with it, before tossing it back in the water. Traumatizing the poor fish for life.

And at that point the Admin realized he was losing this argument and banned me from the group.

So yeah.

He had no sense of humour.

If the admin of TUFA (Toronto Urban Fishing Ambassadors) cannot win an argument, he just bans people from the group. Some ambassador all right. The people in the group are prejudiced against bowfishing and spearfishing, and the admins of such a group should be setting an example for other fishermen that ALL fishermen are welcome, including sporting enthusiasts of bowfishing and spearfishing.

So instead I have contacted a different Toronto Fishing Club (there are soooo many available) and asked the admin of the club if the group has any prejudices against certain types of fishermen and whether they allow ALL fishermen to join their group.

To anyone curious about this, the individuals in TUFA who have a hatred against bowfishing are Chay Mullin and Howard Shin. Quite the pair of "ambassadors" spreading their hate against a merciful sport.


So now I really want to know.

Is there a chapter in the book above about bowfishing and spearfishing? Because if there is not, clearly the authors need to write chapters on those topics so that they are being inclusive of ALL types of fishermen, who are likewise "sport enthusiasts".

This whole argument that bowfishing is "not sporting enough" is utter nonsense.
  1. You have to go out there and FIND the carp. Just finding them can often be a challenge.
  2. You have to get a good angle and close the distance to be able to shoot them accurately.
  3. You have to actually shoot them, which is complicated by the water's refraction of light making it look like the carp is in a more shallow position than it actually is.
  4. Plus the arrow's trajectory can be slowed by the depth of the water, and even altered by the speed of the current (if any), which is made worse because carp like to spawn near fast flowing water.

So there is a "sporting challenge" to it. And you really have to be an enthusiast to be wading out there in boots to shoot the fish, or to rent/buy and transport a boat to get a better angle to do so. Shooting from the edge of the water or a dock is not usually an option when it comes to carp spawning.


I like both kinds of fishing. But I will admit when the poor fish is gasping to breath, I do want to its suffering faster. To me, the merciful thing to do is to make the suffering as brief as possible. Some fishermen prefer to club the fish in the head, some prefer a knife. Either way works.

So is bowfishing and spearfishing more merciful?

Absolutely it is.

But if you quickly kill the fish with a club or knife, you can make regular fishing more merciful.

And this business of people posing for selfies while torturing and traumatizing the fish, well, I guess that is up to personal opinion. Not my thing. To each their own.

Behead the fish, clean it, fillet it, eat it later fried in batter. That is my thing.

Fitting and Adjusting the Draw Length of a Compound Bow


Can you give me a call to discuss fitting a compound bow.

Stephen C.


Hello Stephen!

Fitting a compound bow? By that I am going to guess you are talking about adjusting it to your draw length.

If you are buying a new compound bow in a store, they usually adjust it to your draw length in the store.

If it is an used compound bow, then it helps to have the manual handy, but it is still possible to adjust it without the manual by changing the position of the cables (and sometimes pins) on the cams. A measure of experience in making such adjustments also helps.

If you are looking for me to help you adjust the bow to your draw length, that is a feat best done in person and not over the phone.

There are YouTube videos about how to adjust the draw length / fitting compound bows if you want to attempt to do this on your own.

If you meant something else by fitting, please elaborate.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Have a good weekend and happy shooting!

Burd's Family Fishing on Father's Day

Happy Belated Father's Day to everyone!

I think I may have broken my fishing curse - I have the worst luck fishing. Ignoring bowfishing, I haven't caught a fish in decades.

The following video can be found on my youtube channel "Project Gridless". Please subscribe if you want to see more videos like this in the future.

So for Father's Day the wife, our (almost) 1 year old son Richard and I came to a trout farm called Burd's Family Fishing. Just north of Toronto in the town of Stouffville it is conveniently close to Toronto and you are practically guaranteed to catch something.

Burd's Family Fishing
13077 ON-48, Whitchurch-Stouffville, ON L4A 7X3

So full disclosure, I suck at fishing. So much so I think I might be cursed. I felt like if I went here then at least I should be guaranteed to at least see fish, and maybe MAYBE break the curse.

For the first 45 minutes or so the curse was in full power. Sit and wait, just nibbles. Damn fish kept nibbling my worms and not taking the hook. Lost 2 worms just from fish that just nibbled on them.

My wife suggested I try further west, and so I go and you can literally see a giant school of trout swimming around there. So I cast to their location and within minutes I get a big bite.

After reeling him in I went back to try and catch fish #2, but we were running low on time and while I did get a few nibbles and I feel certain I could have caught another one now that I knew where they were, alas we had to leave and go visit my Mother-in-Law. So I had to content myself that maybe I have finally broken the curse.

Maybe. We won't know until I go out fishing again sometime.

How much does it cost to stock a fish pond?

Okay so for fun today I decided to research what it would cost to stock a fish pond. Specifically I was looking for rainbow trout, but the prices of other kinds of fish were also of interest.

The problem of course is finding a fish stocking company that actually lists their prices on their website.

Pure Springs Trout and Walleye Farm in Shannonville, Ontario for example on their website (http://puresprings.ca/trout.html) tells you "Price depends on size and quantity, please phone" yada yada... So no help there. Boo! They could at least give you some idea of what the price is.

The Watersmeet Trout Hatchery in Michigan however does list their prices. So nice of them to actually list their prices on their website. So considerate. And they even cover their bases by saying "prices are subject to change due to availability". But at least you have an idea of what the price will be before you phone them.

Watersmeet also had other types of fish availability, but I won't bore you with the details. Suffice to say I liked their website.

So $150 would get you 100 rainbow trout that are 4 to 6 inches long. Then you just let them grow. Or you could get 50 of each size for $537.50, that way you have a wide variety of sizes and they all grow.

Probably should figure out first how big a pond needs to be to support that many fish, and also how much vegetation the pond needs before you decide to stock it.

20 Tips for making your own Fish Pond

1. Fish ponds should be at least 1/2 acre (21,780 sq feet) or more in water surface area. So roughly 150 by 150 feet if you were making a roughly square pond.

2. Make steep slopes to a depth of 4 feet or more. This helps minimize the amount of shallow water around the edge of your pond, which will reduce vegetation that erodes the edge of the shoreline. A shallow water pond (3 feet deep) is ideal for ducks and other waterfowl, but a deep water pond (4 feet or more) is better for fish.

3. The deeper the pond, the more resistant it is to droughts when some of the water will evaporate.

4. Dig the pond on a level plain, ideally a location with a high water table for groundwater. This will dramatically reduce how much water seeps into the ground.

5. Being in a lower area does not guarantee the water table is high. Actually the water table follows the contours of hills, so a higher elevation is often better, and the ground is less likely to be mucky and difficult to work with.

6. Do not excavate a spring, but you could build your pond downhill or nearby a spring.

7. Ground with more clay in it holds water better, so you want the ground surrounding the pond to have at least 20% clay.

8. Get a soil survey. This will tell you how much clay is in the ground, plus they can often tell you how deep the water table is.

9. When digging the pond, don't dig below any layer that is heavy with clay. The moment you go beyond that point it is like pulling the plug on the bathtub, and the water will drain out the bottom.

10. Don't confuse the ground water table with being a spring. 99% of the time you don't have a spring. It is just the ground water table seeping sideways into your new pond.

11. You can also dig test holes to determine where the water table is. It will fill up with water to the point where the water table is, but no further.

12. A deeper test hole can also tell you where the layer with more clay ends, so you have a better idea of how deep you can dig safely.

13. If hiring someone else to dig your pond, get an agreement guaranteeing the depth of the pond itself, not the depth of the hole they dig. The pond will only reach the top of the water table, so if the hole they dig is 15 feet deep, but the water table is 3 feet below the ground, then your pond will only be 12 feet deep. Thus if you want the pond to be 15 feet deep, then the hole would need to be 18 feet deep. It is common to get a written agreement guaranteeing the water depth.

14. Avoid building your pond too close to trees, as leaves and nutrients will end up filling your pond up.

15. Figure out ahead of time where you are going to be excavated dirt from the pond. Avoid putting it anywhere that would effect erosion patterns that could hinder your pond.

16. To prevent erosion and degradation of the water quality, construct a berm / embankment around the pond which is 1 foot tall by 4 feet wide, and have plants on it. The plants will filter surface water and contaminants that would otherwise go downhill and seep into your pond.

17. Do not use pesticides or fertilizers within 100 feet of your pond. Also even at a further distance, never apply pesticides or fertilizers on a windy day. A buffer zone of 100 feet (33.33 yards) of grass around the pond would be ideal.

18. If you have livestock, build a fence around the pond to keep livestock away from your pond.

19. Before building, kill any garlic mustard, glossy buckthorn, or purple loosestrife that is on your property. These invasive species love to clog up ponds and marshlands.

20. Clean the pond of debris or trash regularly.

Personal Note

My parents have a natural duck pond on the property where the ground is low enough that the water table has created a natural pond there, which is sadly rather marshy.

If that pond was dredged out and made deeper using a backhoe, it could be turned in to a fish pond, however there is one big problem... it is surrounded on one side by farmland which has pesticides and fertilizers sprayed on it at least once per year. So even if they were to turn it into a fish pond, they would need to create a 100 foot wide barrier of grass around the pond to keep the water from being spoiled with contaminants.

Plus my parents aren't really into fish, so whatever. Duck pond it will have to stay.

However in the future if I ever own a good amount of land, making a 200 feet wide round-ish pond with another 100 feet of grass around it sounds like a good way to be able to fish whenever I want.

Trout Farms and How to Gut and Cook Trout

Spring and early summer is a good time of the year for trout fishing.

But if you have never done trout fishing, or you have children or friends who have never gone fishing, then Trout Farms are a good place to start.

A few examples near Toronto

Primrose Trout Farm
595646 Blind Line, Shelburne, ON L0N 1S8

Milford Bay Trout Farm
1224 Hewlitt Rd, Bracebridge, ON P1L 1X4

Linwood Acres Trout Farm
8382 Gilmour Rd, Campbellcroft, ON L0A 1B0
Burd's Family Fishing
13077 ON-48, Whitchurch-Stouffville, ON L4A 7X3

Trout Farms typically charge a small entrance fee and then a fee for every 100 grams of fish you catch. Rates vary on location. Thus while you are paying for it, you are also more likely to actually catch a fish, and this thus makes a good introduction for people who are new to fishing - and not used to the concept of going fishing and perhaps not catching a single bite.

Note - To get your monies worth, in theory it is best to arrive early, catch as many fish as you can, and leave with lots of fish. Sure, it costs you more as per the weight of all the fish you catch, but you only have to pay the entrance fee once. Then you fillet the trouts and keep them in the freezer for whenever you want to eat them.

The video below is from "Outdoor Boys" and shows Luke and the boys fishing at a local trout farm, how to gut a fish, how to fillet a fish, and several different cooking recipes.

Easy Pan Fried Trout Recipe

Makes 6 servings
Cooking time: Varies

2 lbs whole trout fillets
2 Tbsp (30 mL) whole wheat or all-purpose flour
¼ tsp (2 mL) freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp (30 mL) milk
2 Tbsp (30 mL) canola oil lemon and parsley, optional garnishes
On a plate, mix flour with pepper for dredging the fish.

Place milk in bowl, dip trout in milk and then place on plate to coat with flour on both sides.
In large saucepan, heat canola oil to medium-high. Place fish in pan and fry for approximately 4 – 5 minutes per side or until golden brown.

Allow fish to stand in pan for about 10 minutes before slicing and serving. Garnish with a wedge of lemon.

Goes well with baked potatoes, french fries, and fried/cooked vegetables.

Happy Fishing and Eating!

How to Adjust Draw Weight on a Compound Bow

Someone contacted me recently asking about my various compound bow repair and tuning services.

Tuning Services
  • Adjusting the draw weight.
  • Adjusting the draw length.
  • Cam synchronization.
  • Reinforcing the peep sight (in the event it is loose).
  • Some newer models also allow you to tune the draw cycle to make it smoother or harsher, which effects FPS speed. Scroll to the * at the bottom of this post to learn more.
  • Etc. If I didn't list it here, just ask.
Although it really depends on what the customer needs and what the bow is capable of. All bows have for example a minimum and maximum draw weight / draw length, and you can adjust between the two limitations fairly easily.
It also helps if you have a copy of the owner's manual with respect to changing the draw length/weight, as there are differences between manufacturers and models, but generally speaking there are certain similarities that are common to all compound bows.

A simple task like "adjusting the draw weight" I would argue is something that 70% of the time you probably don't need me for. (It is the other 30% of the time which you do, and that mostly is due to more modern compound bows that allow you to radically change draw weights.)

Below are two such bows:
  • The Bear Cruzer (left), which has an adjustable draw weight of 5 lbs to 70 lbs.
  • The Diamond Infinite Edge (right), which has an adjustable draw weight of 5 lbs to 70 lbs.

The Diamond Infinite Edge model came out in 2013 and it was the first affordable "broad range" compound bow which could be adjusted anywhere from 5 lbs to 70 lbs, and with a draw length that could be adjusted anywhere from 13 inches to 30 inches, with a maximum let off of 75% (actual let off varied on the poundage and draw length).

But attaining that broad range of adjustability meant the cams on the bow are rather complex, and the owner really should have the manual before attempting to adjust it.

The adjustability and the affordable price of the Infinite Edge made it very popular with new archers and old archers who just wanted a super-adjustable bow - that doesn't need a bow press to adjust. That popularity led to huge sales, and this did not go unnoticed by other manufacturers.

The Bear Cruzer model came out in 2015, boasting almost identical stats, but with 1 extra inch of adjustable draw length (12 to 30 inches instead of 13 to 30). As you can see from the photo above comparing the two, they have a lot of similarities.

Also in 2015, Diamond came out with the Infinite Edge Pro model and improved upon their design, giving the new version a maximum let off of 80%.

Below is a close up image of the cam design of the Infinite Edge Pro:

Looks pretty complicated, right? And this is pretty standard for modern compound bows. Almost all of them now use a complex cam system which requires the owner to be using the owner's manual, or for them to hire someone who is familiar with fixing such things.

Next lets compare the cam system of an older model compound bow, and see how much has changed:

Look how simple that is. Not much complexity, is there? The above cam really only has 3 settings, and they are all for adjusting the draw length. See the following post to learn more.

How to Adjust Draw Weight
Adjusting the Draw Weight on older compound bows, and to a large extent on modern compound bows really comes down to adjusting the limb bolts (shown on the right).

If you want a lighter poundage you turn the bolts counter-clockwise, starting with the top limb bolt and then the lower limb bolt.

If you want a heavier poundage you turn the bolts clockwise, starting with the bottom limb bolt and then the top limb bolt.

I recommend turning either by 1/2 turns or 1 full turn each time, keeping both the top and bottom even in a progressive manner. It takes longer, but it is safer for the bow. Do not turn the top bolt say 5 times or more all at once and then do the same with the bottom bolt. Making sudden rapid changes like that puts extra strain on the bolts, the limbs and the cams. You want to adjust it slowly and safely.

If you think you have reached your desired weight, you can check by drawing back the bow and see how comfortable or hard it feels. (Having the Owner's Manual is handy at this stage for determining the poundage.) You then repeat this process until you reach a draw weight that feels right for you (or measures the desired amount on a bow scale).

If you don't have an Owner's Manual, but you want to be really precise, then you will need a bow scale.

I use a 100 lb digital bow scale from Allen. I use it both for adjusting draw weights on compounds, but also for the tillering process when I am making longbows and flatbows. When tillering a bow, it is very handy to have.

Costs about $32 CDN on Amazon.ca. (This is just info, not a paid promotion. Notice the lack of links.)

Simply turn it on, attach the hook like you would a mechanical release, and then pull back until you reach the let off point.

The scale then tells you the peak poundage that was reached during the draw cycle (or change the settings and it will tell you the holding weight).

So yes, if you really want to measure the precise poundage then you will want a digital scale. (Also works well for weighing babies and toddlers who don't want to stand still.)

So what do you need a Compound Bow Repairman for then?

Honestly, most of what I do is NOT tuning. I can certainly do it if the customer needs me to, but repair work is usually things like:

  • Reassembling a compound bow that has been dryfired and is now in pieces.
  • Restringing a compound bow that has been dryfired and the string and/or cables fell off.
  • Replacing parts that are broken, bent or otherwise damaged.
  • Etc.

I also find that some places refuse to do certain types of repair work and try to sell the customer a new bow instead. They see an older (possibly vintage) compound bow, they think it will be too hard to repair, and they don't want to bother trying to repair it when they could just sell you a new compound bow instead (and get a commission).

In my case, I typically don't sell compound bows. I will sometimes buy compound bows for parts, or buy compound bows, repair them and then sell them, but most of the time my "stock of compound bows" is limited to my personal bows that are not for sale. So there is no motivation for me to sell a customer a brand new compound bow, because I don't sell such things.

I also really enjoy the process of fixing compound bows, especially older / vintage models. So to me part of the fun is taking something old and broken, and fixing it again. (Often I also clean it too, so it looks shiny and new-ish in photos and when I give it back to the customer.)

I don't know of anyone (anywhere!) who is into repairing vintage compound bows.

So do you need me to adjust the draw weight on your compound bow?

If it is an older model, you can probably do it yourself just by adjusting the bolts.

If it is a modern model with a larger variance in the draw weight, you probably need to read the owner's manual or you will need a repairman like myself. You can certainly try to adjust it yourself using just the limb bolts. If the variance in draw weights is comparatively small (say 40 to 60 lbs, instead of 5 to 70), then you probably won't need me at all.

* Adjusting the Draw Cycle

So you might have noticed that way up at the top I mentioned that some new compound bows (mostly that came out within the last 2-3 years) also have an option to adjust the draw cycle of the bow. This adjustment allows the archer to choose between.

  • A harsher draw cycle and a harder wall before reaching the let off, which stores more kinetic energy and offers more FPS speed.
  • A smoother draw cycle and softer wall before reaching the let off, which offers more user comfort and less FPS speed.

Thus the archer can perhaps start with a smoother draw cycle and a lower poundage, and as their strength grows they can adjust the settings so that it becomes harsher / faster as they progressively get stronger.

People with shoulder and/or back problems may also wish to use the smoother settings.

The compound bows that currently offer this feature typically cost $1,000 CDN or more, and it is a particular type of person who spends that much on a compound in the first place. Typically, such a person also buys a new compound every year or every two years, and their old compounds end up collecting dust in a closet or in a case waiting for the day when its owner might be struck by the thought of "Hey, I should shoot that old Hoyt or Matthews sometime."

Adjusting the Draw Cycle on one of these modern compound bows is no more complicated than adjusting the draw length - provided of course that you have the owner's manual.

Never, ever throw away the owner's manual.

Sometimes you can find a copy of an owner's manual online, but there is no guarantee you can find it. So please don't throw them out.

Two Ways to make a Barbed Arrowhead, Greek and Hupa

African Barbed Arrowhead
There are a variety of ways to make a barbed arrowhead, which are useful for both hunting and for warfare - and of course, fishing. Lest we forget fishing.

Below are two videos demonstrating the traditional Hupa method, and also the Greek method using bronze casting. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

There are lots of methods out there for making arrowheads - some people reuse old spoons for example, or nails, or any number of things that can be reworked, melted, cast, hammered, bent, and later sharpened into a good working arrowhead.

eg. Just take tinsnips and the some lids from metal cans and you can make some nice flat arrowheads very easily. Sharpen and they are good to use. (Somewhat disposable, but hey, they are also plentiful and easy to make.)

How to start a fire with a flint and steel kit

Trivia Question:

Which is harder, flint or steel?

Watch the following video from Townends to get the answer.

You can buy flint and steel kits on Amazon, or if you are smart you can collect your own materials for considerably less cost.

Wilderness Solutions Flint and Steel Kit - $28.95 (includes shipping)

Primitive Fire Deluxe Flint and Steel Kit - $32

Myself, I already have everything I need.

Years ago I bought flint arrowheads. So I have those handy if I need them. That plus a steel knife and some suitable tinder, and I am good to go. eg. Pine sap makes very good tinder for starting a fire.

eg. Watch the following video from Coalcracker Bushcraft on how to use pine sap as tinder. Plus, pine sap is suitable tinder when everything else is wet because it is so oily it repels water.

How to use an Adze, and how to make your own

So I have been meaning to post more woodworking posts and videos on here, and with the plethora of woodworking videos available on YouTube there are certainly a lot of options. Anything by Roy Underhill of the Woodwright's Shop is definitely at the top of my list, as he tends to emphasize old school hand tools that don't require any electricity.

And for off gridders, anything that doesn't use electricity is definitely the thing to get.

However I could not find any Roy Underhill videos demonstrating how to use an adze (or how to make one). They exist, and I know this because I have watched them, but I cannot seem to find them right now.

So we will have to make do.

So the first video is from Scott Wunder from "WunderWoods" who demonstrating how to use an adze.

The second video further below is how to make a stone adze using stone age materials. Clearly that design can be adapted to metal if someone wanted to.

Adzes can also be used for hollowing out a log into a bowl. So the third video below covers that topic.

Last xmas I got a small adze as a gift and in the future I will be using it for bowlmaking - and possibly for trimming wood off a stave during bowmaking too, but we shall see. I will try to remember to make a video of the process.

How to Build a Log Cabin, Timelapse + Longer Video

First, lets watch the timelapse video of how this guy built his own log cabin.

All videos are from the youtube channel "My Self Reliance".

Next to my commentary before we continue to the longer videos below:

  1. If it was me building it, I would have liked to have made it bigger. Mostly because I have a wife and a kid and we would want the extra space.
  2. When I lived in South Korea I got the pleasure of visiting and sleeping in a Traditional Korean log cabin - which was AMAZING. It was so cool inside, and it was very easy to sleep there. No bugs or insects either. Clearly there is something to be learned from their traditional building techniques.
  3. If I didn't make it bigger, I would have at least designed it in a way that it can be modified and expanded in the future easily.
But whatever! This is his place, not mine. Maybe he doesn't have a wife/kids. Or maybe he does, but they don't like mosquitoes. Whatever. His choice, his freedom to do as he pleases.

I checked. He does have a wife and a dog. And kids. And apparently he has since built cabins, so he now has plenty of space.

In this 2nd video here is his guide to buying cheap off grid land... and talks about many of the legal issues about building a log cabin on off grid land, which can be hassle for many people. Many of the pitfalls can be rather discouraging, but it is important to know what you are getting into.

The next video: How to build a log cabin for free.

And the last video: A 1 hour video from 2017 on how to build a log cabin.

If life in a log cabin interests you, please check out his other videos on "My Self Reliance". I found them to be very informative.

How to Buy and Flip Off Grid Homes in Ontario

Six Steps to Buying and Selling an Off Grid Home for a Profit

#1. Research potential homes to buy.

You are looking for homes that have the following features:
  • No electricity, not attached to Ontario's electrical grid.
  • No water/sewage or self-sufficient water/sewage.
  • Relative easy to repair / beautify.
  • Cheap, but will be desirable once you've fixed everything and turned it into an off grid marvel.
  • The real estate prices in the region should be on the upswing.

#2. Determine your costs and time requirements.
  • Calculate how much time and money will be needed to add a solar array/wind turbine and battery system.
  • Calculate how much time and money will be needed to add an off grid septic system and to provide water, water filtration and a water heating system.
  • Calculate how much time and money will be needed to make any necessary repairs and to beautify the property to bring in potential buyers. This might include buying flowers, plants, repairing the driveway, any number of things.
  • Calculate how much time and money will be needed to add various features that would increase the value of the property. eg. Adding an outdoor hot tub, a pool, a greenhouse or other features.
#3. Add up all costs and time requirements and add 30%.

Expect costs to end up being more than you expect. Same goes with time requirements.

For example you might be buying a place that you think requires $40,000 worth of costs to increase its Off Grid value, plus a 100 days of labour to make all the necessary changes. But that is only because you are low-balling everything. You are thinking that is the minimum amount of money and time you need.

Instead you probably need at least $52,000 and 130 days of labour to complete the tasks.

You also need to determine how much is your time worth. Is your labour worth $20 per hour? If so then 130 days of labour, at 8 hours per day is 1,040 hours. So your time should be worth at least $20,800.

Thus if you spend $52,000 improving the property and $20,800 worth of your time, your end goal is to sell the property for at least $72,800 more than whatever you paid for it.

So if you paid $200,000 for the property your goal should be to sell it for $273,000 or more.

If you paid $10,000 for the property, you want to be selling it for $83,000 or more.

#4. Determine if Buying a particular property is worth the financial risk.

Some properties might be worth the risk, others might require a lot more time and money to make a sale. Ideally you want to buy a property, improve it dramatically, and then sell it quickly for a profit.

Then you take the money you made and start planning your next purchase. Another off grid property that is down on its luck that you can improve and then sell for a profit.

Always Remember the Following Principle: Sell for a profit.

If a particular property seems too risky, unlikely to be sold for a profit for the amount of work required, then you should consider all your options and choose a different property.

#5. Buy the property which offers the most potential for a quick profit with the least financial risk.

Then all you need to do is accomplish your goals and stay within budget in terms of time requirements and the amount of money spent on materials.

#6. Get Ready to Sell.

During the whole process your end goal is to sell the property, so every step along the way should be geared towards that goal.

One way to improve your chances would be to make a series of YouTube videos about the process of repairing the property. Lots of photography is good too, which you then promote on a website.

When it eventually comes time to sell you might already have several potential buyers interested in the property and thus not have to advertise much via the local real estate brokers. Quality photographs and videos can do a lot to draw in potential buyers, especially buyers who are specifically looking for an off grid home which doesn't require any additional work and they just need to move in.

Then you count your profits and go back to step #1. Repeat the process with the added knowledge of what worked, what didn't work, and what helped to make the most profit.

Some house flippers are only looking to do some gardening, landscaping, swap out the old windows, and maybe a new paint job before they flip a house. But you don't have to be limited by such narrowly focused goals. A lot more profit can be made if you put in the extra effort.

New solar panels, a wind turbine, a battery system, a better water and septic system - giving the new buyers more electricity and more access to clean water is valuable to the tech savvy buyers of today who like their hot showers.

New windows, a paint job and some gardening/landscaping.

How do you find time to garden?

So there was a discussion on a Facebook group I am a member of and one person argued that people don't have time to grow a garden. (And also argued that you cannot grow certain vegetables in Canada - which is false, because you can grow ANYTHING in a greenhouse, and we have greenhouses in Canada.)

So that one person contacted me via private message, basically wanting to continue the discussion.

And here was my response:
Growing your own food is like printing your own money. You save money and time.

Think about how much time you spend to earn $60 which you then spend on $60 worth of groceries. Plus the actual time of going to the grocery store. So money really should be measured in time.

So when you buy a pineapple instead of money, you are essentially spending time.

But what if you didn't buy a pineapple. What if you spent that time earning that money to plant tomato seeds instead. And the amount of time you spent at the grocery store each week you spent gardening instead.

Lets say you have your own backyard. In the amount of time it takes to go to the bathroom during a TV commercial break (2.5 minutes typically) you could go outside and spend 2 minutes plucking weeds in the garden.

(Also some weeds are edible...)

The point is that people have ample time to garden, it is really more about time management and using less time in grocery stores and more spare moments gardening.

Or alternatively half an hour per week at a community garden. Or doing guerilla gardening.

Or even foraging for food... but that is another topic.

Lets expand a bit on a few of the topics I mentioned above.

#1. Money = Time, and Vice Versa

A lot of the time people buy groceries because it is lazy and convenient to have someone else do it for you. eg. The work of gardening, farming, preserving food, etc.

Depending on how much money you make per hour doing "work" it does make some sense to let someone else do all the gardening and farming for you, and then you just buy what they make.

If you are poor then you probably have more time than money, so it makes sense to grow your own food.

If you are rich then you have lots of money and it makes sense to let someone else grow food for you, but it makes even more sense that you can afford to garden as a hobby.

So either way, unless they have extremely busy careers, they should be able to find time to garden.

#2. How much time is a Pineapple?

Well, considering pineapples are typically about $4.99 (depends where you shop though) + tax, lets just assume the average pineapple is $5 (tax included).

If you are making $10 per hour when working (whatever you do) then you can work really hard and buy a bunch of pineapples.

But if you are making say $50 per hour suddenly you can do a little work and in a single hour you have enough for 10 pineapples.

So Time is Relative to how much money you make... or don't make.

#3. So what if people stopped buying pineapples and grew tomatoes instead?

Obviously growing your own food is going to save your money, regardless of whether the food you are growing in tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, lettuce, cabbage, squash, cucumbers and more.
It will take you time to plant such things. Time to plant, time to remove weeds, time to harvest, time to clean. But overall you ultimately save time because you gain lots of food for a relatively small amount of time and effort.

If you really wanted more exotic fruits like pineapples, bananas, etc - you might need to build a greenhouse. But ask yourself, do you really NEED exotic fruits? Aren't they really just a frill? They are not a necessity.

#4. Gardening Once per Day for Two Minutes

Seriously doable.

2 minutes per day to weed. For a small garden. Not a huge one.

Assuming a growing season of April to October (or May to September), we are looking at roughly 5 to 7 months of gardening. 60 minutes per month overall, spread out over individual days. Overall you are looking at maybe 5 to 7 hours worth of work over the course of a year.
So completely doable. Very easy to find 2 minutes per day to do a task, even if it is for a ridiculously short amount of time. 

But consider this... the price of seeds vs the price of produce.

$1 of seeds is typically worth about $75 worth of produce.
$1 is what you would expect to spend for a small package of carrot seeds.
So expect to get about $75 worth of carrots by the end.
If you grow 10 different kinds of vegetables, spending $10 on seeds - expect to get roughly $750 worth of produce when it is time to harvest.
So approx. 6 hours worth of work spread out over 5 to 7 months, how much is that per hour?
$125 per hour.
 Hence the saying: Growing your own food is like printing your own money.
So two minutes per day and you are effectively getting paid $2.08 per minute, isn't that worth it?

#5. Some Weeds are Edible.

Okay so technically lots of things are edible. If you can fit it in your mouth, it is edible. It is really more of a matter of whether the weeds you are digging out actually taste good.

For example I consider kale to taste disgusting. I am sure there are some weeds that are better tasting.
#6. Time Management

Would you rather spend time:
  • Browsing the grocery store. (Plus the time of going back and forth to the grocery store.)
  • Gardening.
Seriously, it is really a matter of choice. (And hopefully having land available to garden on. But hey, that is where community gardens and guerilla gardening is for.)

#7. Foraging for Food.

Seriously. Worth learning more about Foraging.

youtube.com/ProjectGridless + 300 Posts of Project Gridless

So youtube.com/ProjectGridless is the custom URL for the Project Gridless YouTube Channel.

I have been meaning to work on the YouTube Channel lately, to make some kind of start video with a logo, and an end credits video, which together would form bookends for each video to make it look all professional. So when I manage to make those, I will be adding them to my YouTube Channel.

I have also been studying what other people are doing with their videos... YouTube Channels like:

  • Townends
  • Outdoor Boys
  • Catfish and Carp
  • Coalcracker Bushcraft
  • Ontario Off Grid
  • Fouch Family Off Grid
  • My Self Reliance
  • Primitive Technology
  • And more...

And what I like about these channels is that they all have somewhat different methods of making videos, and pros and cons of each.

The guy from Primitive Technology for example never talks. This works well for him because he does a pretty good job demonstrating his methods of building things.

On the other hand Luke from both Outdoor Boys and Catfish and Carp (he has two channels) is pretty funny and his kids are funny too, so humour is a big part of his channel.

I also like how Townends sometimes interviews people, which is a nice method of talking about different types of off grid / outdoor topics. I would love to be interviewing people about their off grid successes and failures.

So I can see sometimes making videos that are purely demonstration, no talking required, and other times I can see making videos where there is talking - including some funny business. There are benefits to both.

Some of the channels use music during their opening intros / end credits. Some do not. In some the credits are more of a reminder to ask people to subscribe, click Like, etc. Others are less annoying but still do it.

So clearly I need to be reminding people to Subscribe/etc, but I also don't want it to be too annoying. Short and sweet is best.

There is also the issue of the Project Gridless logo.

Should I change it?

I chose this logo years ago because it looked like solar cells from solar panels. I still like that aspect of it. What I don't like is that it looks a bit like 8-bit pixels.

For now I have decided to keep it "as is", but I could be open to changing it in the future to make something more professional looking. Perhaps by simply fixing the pixels issue to make a logo with a smoother look.

300 Posts of Project Gridless

So I recently surpassed 300 posts and didn't notice until today. This post here is technically Post #304.

I also have another post scheduled for May (bringing May's total to 10 posts) and another 8 posts have already been scheduled for June.

My goal in 2018 is to have 10 posts per month, for a total of 120 for the year. So I am scheduling them in advance so I can stay ahead of the schedule.

Having a YouTube Channel, once it gets up and running in a more professional light, might be trickier to keep to exactly 10 posts per month. We shall see. My goal with that is to eventually be making 1 video per week on a variety of outdoor and off grid topics. So roughly 4 blog posts per month would be about the video topic, so only about 6 posts per month should be about other non-video "vanilla" topics.

(Totally Off Topic - Sort of like how Top Gear is both a TV show and a magazine. Sadly, without the three fellas from the TV show who made it great, the magazine is now kind of a dud, because they didn't just lose their TV show presenters, they also lost their best magazine writers. Oh well. Grand Tour is a pretty nice replacement.)

So 300 posts is good, 500 posts is better, and someday I would like to see 1,000.

Meanwhile my CardioTrek.ca site is up to 831 posts. So it will probably reach 1,000 first. Cardio Trek is my website for my primary business, which is teaching archery lessons in Toronto. Some day I will also use that website for any "archery how to books" that I publish. I am currently working on 1 book, with several ideas for other books to follow. I do technically already have 1 archery book published, but it is a poetry book instead of a how to guide. It is called "Dreaming of Zen Archery" and available on Kobo.

Oh to live off grid and make outdoor videos / write books all the time... Oh and do archery and ride horses. That is the true dream.

Keep chasing that dream.

Cheap Off Grid Land in Hawaii / Homes on Wheels

Years ago I came across a real estate website that sold cheap off grid land located in Hawaii.

The problem of course was the land was located on the side of an active volcano, which at the time was spewing forth a tiny amount of lava each year and didn't threaten the property.

There was no sewer or water available, and no electricity.

Thus anyone willing to buy that cheap land would need to do a number of things:

  1. Develop a septic system to deal with their human waste, which would likely need to be drilled into solid rock.
  2. Find a source of water, which meant collecting rainwater and/or trucking in water.
  3. Install a solar array, wind turbine and/or diesel generator, along with a battery system, to provide electricity.

Some people no doubt saw this as an opportunity, bought land there, did the above things, and saved a lot of money because the land was super cheap - so cheap it offset the extra costs of installing solar and wind power/etc and all the other costs, but they still forgot one important thing.

They should have made their homes mobile.

Because while many places on the side of the volcano don't have water, sewer or electricity, they did at least still have roads.

Thus when the volcano changed from slowly belching out lava to more quickly spewing forth lava, they could have simply hitched their mobile home to a truck and towed it to a safer location.

There are multiple options for making a home mobile too.

#1. The Classic Mobile Trailer Home

Comes in a variety of shapes in sizes, but are more or less a roughly rectangular trailer home.

#2. The RV (Recreational Vehicle)

Not technically a home, but there are some pretty nice RVs out there these days which can basically double as a home. They come in a variety of sizes and prices... including ridiculous ones that come with a sports car hidden in its belly.

#3. The Shipping Container Home

I have written about shipping container homes in the past on Project Gridless and you are welcome to check out the previous posts. The shipping container is moved to the desired location, but in a hurry it could also be moved out the same way it was brought there, on a flatbed truck with a crane.

Thus even if your shipping container was made up of say 2 or more shipping containers, they could be dis-attached and then relocated.

Not Just for Volcano Prone Land

You can use this principle of packing up and leaving for a variety of locations and potentially dangerous situations.
  • Flood plains.
  • Swamp land.
  • Forest fires.
  • Earthquakes.
  • Sinkholes.
  • Etc
Maybe you just don't like your neighbours? Pack up and leave. Buy a different piece of off grid land. Perhaps a better piece of land becomes available, you load up everything and just relocate. With luck maybe you even have nicer neighbours.

Special Note

Not all the volcanoes in Hawaii are active. You could potentially buy land on one of the older islands where the volcano is dormant / dead. Hawaii has over 11 major volcanoes, and most of them are dormant, which means the older dormant ones offer a potential deal when it comes to cheap off grid land.

Of course, you don't need to leave Ontario or Canada to find cheap off grid land. You can find lots of cheap off grid land in Northern Ontario very easily. The real big differences will be the extra effort of keeping your home warm during the winter, so Hawaii does offer a tantalizing offer of cheap land that is warm all year round.

There are also other islands in the Pacific Ocean you could consider as well. You are not limited to just Hawaii, although it certainly is one of the larger and more exotic island chains to choose from. There are plenty of other places to consider if you are willing to travel that great distance to find an off grid home.

But if you did decide on Northern Ontario, it does have an important feature: Geologically it is very solid, as it rests on the Canadian Shield which is basically a large thick chunk of rock in the earth's crust. No worries about volcanoes or earthquakes here.

And if possible, try to choose land that isn't near a swamp or on a flood plain.

Electrical Shed for an Off Grid Home

Having an Electrical Shed for your Off Grid Home is quite handy for a number of reasons.

  1. Really reduces the noise from a gas or diesel generator.
  2. Good place to store the battery system for your solar panels and wind turbines.
  3. Keeps all electrical items separate from your home in case of any sort of electrical fire in the shed.
  4. Keeps all electrical items away from your home in case your off grid home catches fire (due to a non-electrical reason such as from a wood burning stove).
  5. Good place to store tools.
  6. You can put solar panels on the roof of the shed and the wiring required would be minimal.
So yes, lots of benefits to keeping your electrical items away from your Off Grid Home. And vice versa.

Ontario Off Grid

I also found a good series of videos from "Ontario Off Grid" on YouTube which are worth watching.

I don't know if "Ontario Off Grid" has a website, blog or Facebook page - tried looking, but only found sites with the same name but not the same person. The name sadly is a bit generic so multiple people are using that name.

I even did an image search, hoping to find his logo on the website... and the first images to come up were Project Gridless. Irony.

Scrolled down the images, found nada for his logo. So I have left a message on his "Ontario Off Grid" youtube channel asking whether he has a website. Maybe he does, maybe he doesn't.

The shed he built does seem a bit large for 'just a generator shed' so to me it makes sense to just store all of the electrical items (and possibly some tools) in the shed too. If you are going to build a big shed, you might as well use the space for other things too.

So yeah, here are 5 videos from "Ontario Off Grid" covering various aspects of installing a generator in an electrical shed - mostly because it is quieter.

Quiet Generator, Part 1

Quiet Generator, Part 2

Moving Electrical Systems to an Electrical Shed

Insulating the Electrical Shed

Installing a Generator and an Exhaust System in an Electrical Shed

How to make and fire Mud Bricks

The video below is from "Primitive Technology" and demonstrates how to make and fire in a kiln mud bricks.

How to turn a Beaver Dam into a source of Electricity

So I was watching the video further below and got an idea. What if a person added an overshot waterwheel generator to the outgoing pipe from draining a beaver pond? Or a water turbine inside the pipe?

It would provide electricity to any nearby home. Cheap renewable electricity.

The 2nd video shows the same pond months later, showing how it is still flowing - and could be providing electricity of the guy in the video (Kevin) had thought of installing a turbine or generator.

And I am apparently not the first person to have had this thought. I found a 3rd video where someone did indeed use pond overflow to provide electricity, roughly 174 volts worth. Actual voltage will no doubt vary on the amount of water flowing through the turbine and the type of turbine being used.

Busting a Beaver Dam and Draining the Pond

Return to the Beaver Pond

Pond Power

Imported Canada Rock Art Balancing to Project Gridless

Okay so today I decided to do two things:

#1. I added a new section for "Artwork" as many people who are into building their own off grid homes are often artists in one form or another.

#2. I decided to export my old blog called "Canada Rock Art Balancing" and imported it to Project Gridless, and get rid of the old blog - or more precisely, the old blog now redirects to the "Artwork" topic on PG.

So here goes...

Rock Balancing is a fun activity I was introduced to years ago by my then-girlfriend Aimee Rimes, and it makes for interesting but temporary sculptures. As such it is well suited to the off grid community who love to build things with rocks, and are not necessarily worried about whether something lasts forever. It makes total sense for me to import my old blog since I don't update it very often and it meshes well with Project Gridless. It makes for a fun activity and challenge. It is also a fun thing to do in a flower garden or even a rock garden if you have lots of rocks available.

  • Not all the posts are about rocks specifically and are other items being balanced.
  • A few of the posts are written by Aimee Rimes.
  • Some of the old posts are dated according to the day they were balanced, others have specific titles.

Here they are:

Rock Art Balancing, August 8th 2014

Rock Balancing, August 1st 2014

More Rock Balancing, July 30th 2014

Rock Balancing, July 30th 2014

Rock Balancing, July 22nd 2014

Balancing Kitchen Items and Cookware

Rock Balancing Video

What It Takes To Balance Rocks

Rock Balancing in the Garden

Rocks Balanced in Oval

#1 Connecting With Nature

More photos from April 24th, 2011

April 23rd and 24th, 2011: Rock Balancing at Toronto Beaches

April 30th, encounters with rock balancers

In the beginning there was rocks...

Multiple Ways to use a Blanket for Survival

Whether you are being rained on or making camp, a thick blanket can be a valuable survival tool.

In the video below from Townsends you learn various methods a blanket can improve your survival chances. The video also talks about how to use dead leaves to create a comfortable layer between you and the cold ground when nothing else is available.

Squirrel Home in a Tree

Okay, it is not art... or is it? It is a Squirrel's Home in a Tree. I guess that makes it a Treehouse..?

Totally worth sharing.


Exploring Hoggs Falls in Ontario

Hoggs Falls is a relatively small (by my standards) waterfalls north of Flesherton (east of Durham Ontario), but a relatively easy one to visit. Not much of a hike to get to it from the entrance. (Unlike say Hilton Falls, which requires a good long hike to reach.)

As such Hoggs Falls requires less exercise, but is also a smaller reward. Hilton Falls is both bigger (and you can walk behind it), but sadly for the more obese people out there will require you to do more exercise to reach the majestic waterfalls.

Still, Hoggs Falls does have a lot to offer, being quite scenic, a good place for fishing, a good place for picnics, and is free. (I should have mentioned last time there is also a parking fee at Hilton Falls.)

Both Hoggs Falls and Hilton Falls (and any other waterfalls I add in the future, seeing as I have a backlog of old waterfalls videos I have yet to add) can be viewed on my YouTube channel Project Gridless.

In theory a person could attempt to walk behind Hoggs Falls, but I would not recommend it. There isn't a big enough gap between the falls and the back wall of stone, and the rocks are rather slippery. In the 2nd video below I managed to get to the base of the falls by tip-toeing across the rocks, but even that was a balancing act.

The videos below were shot in Summer 2014.

Ontario Fishing Tackle Rules, Regulations and Laws

This looks like a good place to fish...
So I was watching a video about fishing and the American in the video was using corn as bait and mentioned that in some states they are not allowed to bait fish with corn.

So it got me wondering if corn was allowed in Ontario or not... and what other fishing rules does Ontario have that I might not be aware of since I usually bowfish for carp instead of reel fishing?

Thus I decided to look up a lot of Ontario's fishing regulations, having previously only seriously read the sections on bowfishing for carp.

So for example I didn't know there was only two zones in Ontario where fishing with artificial flies was allowed, zones 6 (near Thunderbay) and 10 (near Sudbury).

Learn more about Artificial Fly Zones
And within those 2 zones, only 3 rivers are legally allowed for fly fishing. Wow.

So for most of Ontario, fly fishing is technically illegal. Only those 3 rivers in 2 specific zones allow it.

In some respects that must be like belonging to a club. You go fishing up north and see the same people you saw last year, like everyone is in the same club.

For those who don't know, Artificial Fly Fishing (commonly called just "fly fishing") is defined as:
  • a lightweight lure dressed with silk, tinsel, wool, fur or feathers
  • can have a single or multi-pointed hook
  • includes wet flies, dry flies and streamer flies
  • does not include an artificial lure or organic bait
The "fly" is a tiny imitation of a specific kind of insect, designed to lure a specific kind of fish which favours eating those insects. Thus "artificial flies" are designed to look like a real fly and trick the fish into biting.

So all these rules, just for fly fishing.

I got all excited learning more about fly fishing, and then really disappointed I could only do it legally near Thunderbay and Sudbury.


I guess if I want to fish closer to home I will have to find other kinds of fish and a different method closer to home.

So for example, some regions of Ontario allow bowfishing and spearfishing. They are likewise heavily regulated. So for the example of spearfishing, they can only be used for spearfishing carp or white suckers, only during certain times of the year, and only certain zones.

So here is the thing about fishing in Ontario...

There are many different rules and laws and they vary across Ontario.
  • They can vary by zone.
  • They can vary by lake.
  • They can vary by river.
  • They can also vary by the time of year.
 Thus you might be in the right zone, the right lake or river, but still get the season wrong. So you need to research where and when you are allowed to fish, not just what kind of tackle you can use because often certain types of tackle can only be used during a certain season.

eg. Carp season.

Also I should note from personal experience with carpfishing, never go at the end of a season. Early or mid season is best. Fishing at the end of the season can often mean the fish are no longer spawning and there aren't any carp to be found.

And another thing to note is that the rules and regulations are not guidelines. They are laws. So sucks to be you if you get caught doing something illegal in the wrong lake, the wrong river, the wrong zone, and/or during the wrong time of year.

Fishing Laws for Hooks and Lines

The following law applies all across Ontario and has only two exceptions:
  • you can attach up to 4 hooks to your fishing line.
  • you can use only 1 line.
The two exceptions:

1. You can use 2 lines when fishing from a boat in the Great Lakes, however exceptions and restrictions apply.

2. You can use 2 lines when ice fishing in most waters (again, there are exceptions) as long as:
  • you stay within 60 metres at all times of any line or tip-up.
  • you have a clear and unobstructed view of both your lines at all times.
Fishing Laws for Lead Sinkers / Jigs

It is against the law to use lead fishing sinkers or jigs in Canada’s national parks and wildlife areas. When birds and other wildlife swallow them, they can get lead poisoning.

So... why bother even buying them then? Just get sinkers and jigs that are made from nickle or some other suitable material.

There are various other fishing laws, but in relation to fishing tackle we have covered the basics. Here are a few definitions in case you were wondering:

  • a single-pointed or multiple-pointed hook on the same shaft
  • lures can have multiple hooks — each hook on a lure counts toward your 4-hook limit
  • snaggers and spring gaffs are not hooks
Barbless hook
  • a hook made without a barb
  • a hook with its barb completely removed
  • a hook with its barb flattened against the shaft of the hook
Organic bait
  • any part of a plant or animal
  • common baits like worms and minnows
  • animals like frogs, crayfish, crickets, hellgrammites, etc.
Artificial lures
  • spoons
  • plugs
  • jigs
  • artificial flies






Antler, a good place to try venison in Toronto

Antler Kitchen & Bar
4.8 Star Rating on Google
4.5 Star Rating on Yelp (although to be fair, a lot of Yelp reviews are fake)

1454 Dundas St W, Toronto, ON M6J 1Y6


Reservations by Phone
(647) 345-8300

Sunday 11a.m.–2:30p.m., 5–10p.m.
Monday Closed
Tuesday 5–11p.m.
Wednesday 5–11p.m.
Thursday 5–11p.m.
Friday 5p.m.–12a.m.
Saturday 11a.m.–2:30p.m., 5p.m.–12a.m.

"Antler" is a local Toronto restaurant and bar which serves up a variety of options on its menu, including vegan and vegetarian dishes, as well as locally sourced ethical meat such as beef and venison. Venison, for those who don't know, is deer meat.

Venison is tastier than beef, but also more nutritious. Deer thrive in the forest, which also means that consuming venison has a significantly lower carbon footprint than conventional cattle livestock.

As such if a person is curious about trying venison, wants a healthier / more ethical alternative to beef, then venison is certainly an option. Also since Antler does source a variety of other ethically grown meats, it is also a good place to try those too.

Myself I have had both venison and moose meat. Both are very tasty, and I would definitely eat them again.

Antler has both a brunch and a dinner menu with a variety of options on both, and I am currently thinking of taking my wife there as a celebration for her graduating from law school. (We might end up going somewhere else, as it will likely come down to my wife's decision. It is her graduation after all, not mine. But maybe I can go to Antler next year for my birthday or some other event.)

Might even take our son with us. He needs to be trying new foods. (He will be be 10 months old a week from now.)

Antler Brunch Menu

Antler Dinner Menu

While browsing the dinner menu I also noted the wild boar. Ooooooo! Something I haven't had before, sounds like something to try.


Antler recently got a lot of media attention because of vegans protesting outside of the restaurant. One of the owners, who doubles as a chef/butcher, got frustrated with the vegans constantly and repeatedly protesting outside his restaurant and decided to butcher a leg of deer in the restaurant window for the vegans to watch - you know, to spite them and to send the message that he and his business partner are not about to change their ways.

The vegans, who were effectively trying to extort the business, recorded the butchering and it went viral online and in the news media. And it backfired on them. "Antler" is now more popular than ever and as mentioned above, now requires reservations.

It is so popular I hope they end up opening a second restaurant. The vegans will be truly upset if it comes to that.

Personal Note - I have nothing personal against vegans myself, but I do wish they would mind their own business when it came to promoting their beliefs and not be all Hitler (Hitler was a vegetarian) on trying to force their beliefs on to others. In fact, I have a personal rule that every time a vegan tries to force their beliefs unto me I go out and eat a rabbit, a duck or some other cute tasty animal.

So here is the video, as posted on WatchMojo (which tells you how viral the clip became).

Later the owner/chef/butcher Michel Hunter became internet famous and has since done a number of interviews. Like the following interview with Joe Rogan, who is pro-hunting.

Seeing as I am also trying to build Project Gridless as a YouTube channel, I am also going to reach out shortly to see if we can organize a video interview. So check back in a few weeks and we shall see if I managed to score an interview with Michel, who is really busy these days thanks to all the extra publicity.


So I did get a response, but they are no longer doing interviews and apparently waiting for the fuss to die down.

So here is my thought... wait a few months, contact them then and see if an interview can still be arranged - and perhaps focus on a specific topic such as "The Proper Way to Butcher a Deer" or some similar useful topic.

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