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Showing posts with label Compound Bow Repairs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Compound Bow Repairs. Show all posts
Two years ago (January 2021) I had a guy contact me asking me to fix his crossbow and he said he had been struggling to string it and when he couldn't string it properly he "had to" cut the bowstring... And he was asking me if I could fix the bowstring and then string the crossbow for him.
So I read his email, with a degree of amusement, and then didn't bother to answer his email because I wasn't sure how to answer it without sounding very rude and condescending to him about cutting the bowstring.
Frankly I don't like to be rude to people, largely because it is unnecessary.
I also don't like "not answering emails" either, because that is also rude, in my opinion, but in his case it was a situation wherein I was damned either way.
But you see my point right?
Sometimes I just have to shrug and then not answer an email from a potential client because the person is apparently not that bright to know you cannot just glue a bowstring back together. It doesn't work that way. Once cut the bowstring is basically garbage.
But I wanted to rant about this on my blog Project Gridless, but I couldn't do so at the time because the guy obviously reads the blog and might get offended that I was talking about him.
So here I am ranting.
The difference however is that I wrote and scheduled this post two years ago. I wrote this in January 2021, on Wednesday the 13th, and then I scheduled it two years in advance to appear on January 13th 2023.
I figure by then the guy who cut his bowstring will have done two things: 1. He will have replaced the bowstring by buying a new one. 2. He will have realized you cannot just glue bowstrings back together and that what he was asking for was actually really funny.
It would be like going to Canadian Tire and saying: "Hey, I set the tires on my car on fire... Can you like repair the tires and then put them back on the car? No, I don't want new tires. I just want you to repair the old tires and then put them on the car."
See my point?
Yep, very funny.
But because I don't like being rude to people I decided to delay the publication of this blog post for two years.
I just read your post on replacement ideas for compound bow teardrops. Did you ever do a follow-up to this please?
Its something I have been thinking about myself as a project and would love to hear if you have further thoughts.
Thanks
Alex M.
My Response
I have not followed up on that... But I have given thought to using a 3D printer to make new teardrops using an extra durable plastic. It would then need to be tested to determine what poundage the plastic teardrops can safely withstand.
If anyone else manages to make 3D printed teardrops in the future and conducts tests on their durability I would love to hear about their results.
Last year someone contacted me looking for repairs for both a compound bow and a crossbow. After a few emails back and forth I determined there wasn't anything actually broken about the compound bow and crossbow, they were just looking for new strings and to have them restrung. So here was my reply:
Hey B!
So you just need to have both of them restrung? Nothing else wrong with them?
I am going to save you some money then. You don't need to be talking to me at all. Instead I recommend you making a visit to Ballistic Bowstrings in Angus.
Their
place is about 50 minutes north of Vaughan. They used to be in Bradford
which was closer, but they moved back in March 2018. I recommend making an
appointment.
Address:
8954 MCKINNON RD, ANGUS ON L0M 1B4
Phone: (905) 775-4416
They can set you up with new custom strings for both your compound and your crossbow.
I
get all of my strings from them, so even if it was me installing the
strings for you, it is really them who is making the strings. So you
might as well cut out the middle man (me, in this case).
You can check out their website at: http://www.ballisticbowstrings.com/
It
is possible to just order online and have delivered, but the last
person I recommended to them went there in person and they strung his
crossbow for him, and being there in person means they can double-check
to make sure it fits properly. So going there in person has its
advantages. You can read about his experience at: http://www.projectgridless.ca/2018/04/crossbow-bowstrings-and-how-to-replace.html
I
do know two people local here in Toronto who also makes strings, but
they only make bowstrings for longbows and recurves. They don't make any
for compounds or crossbows.
Please let me know how it goes. It is handy to get feedback from people.
So yes... I don't make crossbow strings for clients. But people keep contacting me asking me this same question or similar question.
Examples:
People looking for crossbow strings.
People looking for crossbow replacement parts.
People looking for crossbow repairs.
So yes, I do make my own crossbows - and I do repair compound bows. But I currently am not in the business of repairing crossbows. (And yes, there is a difference between crossbows and compound bows... and compound crossbows.)
And I do make my own crossbow strings, for my own private use. I do not sell them. Ever.
I also make / repair my own bowstrings, but I do not sell bow strings either.
So whenever people come asking for bowstrings (for regular bows or crossbows or compound bows) I always point them to Ballistic Bowstrings. For the following reasons.
They make excellent bowstrings.
They make all types of bowstrings. Regular, compound, crossbow. Custom jobs.
Their prices are reasonable. Not cheap, but not expensive either.
They are right here in Ontario. Not far from Toronto. And I prefer to support local craftsmen.
Regarding crossbow replacement parts...
I do buy old compound bows and take them apart for their parts. Typically I offer $15 to $25 for your old junker compound just so I can strip it for parts.
I am not *currently* in the business of buying / selling crossbows or their parts. Not yet at least. This might change in the future. But for now, just assume that I don't have any crossbow parts at all.
Regarding crossbow repairs...
I am not currently in the business of repairing crossbows either. I can restring a crossbow if need be, but I don't currently do any other kind of crossbow repair. I am focusing solely on compound bows. Not crossbows.
How do I know if my crossbow or compound bow is a junker?
Honestly, here is how you know:
Try to sell it.
If the only offers you receive are people interested in buying it for the parts, or if you receive zero offers period, that means it is not worth repairing and is essentially junk. At which point it really should just be sold for parts.
So if it is a compound bow, let me know and I can make you an offer.
If it is a crossbow, I am currently not interested. Maybe in 2020 I might change my mind and get into the business of repairing crossbows / buying junker crossbows for parts, but at present... nope. Not interested.
Also to anyone thinking their old junker is worth more than $25... nope. It isn't. Old junker compounds are basically a dime a dozen. And they are buyer beware too, as they are used and could have unforeseen problems. Getting $15 to $25 for your garbage is generous as I don't even use most of the parts. Most of them end up in a box, unused.
In other news...
I am currently working on a new project to turn an old broken Stemmler recurve bow into a homemade crossbow. My goal is to make it into a folding crossbow, so the limbs can be folded towards the stock for easy transport. It won't be very powerful (the original limbs were 45 lbs) and I am using part of the working limbs to attach it to the stock, so I am losing about one fifth of the working limbs. When it is a crossbow it will also be losing a good chunk of its draw distance, so I am expecting the final crossbow to only have a draw weight of 25 lbs - which means it will effectively be a toy crossbow.
But whatever. I am having fun enjoying my winter working on this project. When I am done I will have a "Stemmler Crossbow" and have turned a piece of garbage into a working crossbow.
To a compound bow repairman like myself, such websites are invaluable, as they give the client and myself more options when it comes to repairing their compound bow.
So for example if the client wants new cams or limbs or other bits on their bow, they can simply order the parts they need, bring me the bow and the new parts, and I can replace the parts for them.
Sometimes I might determine there is a broken part on the bow that really needs to be replaced, in which case I would inform the client that the part needs to be replaced and the cost of buying the new part plus shipping before any purchase is made.
Back in June someone came to me with an old PSE Nova compound bow (likely circa 1997-98) which according to the customer had been dryfired and needed to be restrung.
Sounds like an easy fix to me, but as usual I ask one rather important question:
"Yes, I can fix it.
Anything else wrong with the bow that I should be aware of?
Would you be able to drop it off tomorrow or Tuesday?"
So you may note the second question I have highlighted in red. It is a rather important question. It lets me know if there is anything else wrong with the bow that might interfere with its ability to be fixed. eg. Broken or twisted cams.
Now sometimes the owner is not aware that there is something else wrong with the bow. It is always possible they didn't know it had a fatal flaw.
In this case the bolt insert for the upper limb had been stripped and pretty messed up. If you adjusted the bolt, it would barely budge unless you exerted some serious pressure.
The customer brought me the bow more or less assembled, with one of the limbs on backwards and the bowstrings and cables haphazardly also on backwards (normally the bowstring is closer to the archer and the cables are closer to the riser, in this case they had been reversed). So whomever re-assembled it that way had basically just did whatever looked right at the time and then stuck in the case for transport. They had probably realized how complicated stringing the bow would be and given up, deciding to leave it for someone who knew what they were doing.
When I examined the bow before attempting to repair it, I determined that is should be an easy fix.
Take everything off since it was incorrect anyway.
Get the limbs in the correct direction
Retighten the bolts to hold the limbs in position.
Put the bow in a press
Restring it.
Re-add the cables.
Done.
But when I got to step 3 the bolt on the top limb wouldn't budge. I decided to remove it completely and inspect it.
Inside the insert you could see pieces of aluminum that had been stripped off the bolt. I clearly most of the metal, and attempted to put the bolt back in but it would slide into an incorrect angle and become stuck. I tried again, trying to keep it in the correct angle, but it would still become stuck.
Worse, my attempts to get the bolt back into position were just stripping more bits of aluminum out of the insert.
Now here in lies the problem...
Yes, I could use a tap and die set to fix the insert, but that would further compromise an already compromised insert which is part of the riser itself and cannot be removed. A tap and die set can realign the threads on the insert, but it would never be completely perfect ever again, and would always have problems with it.
Worse, an archer using the bow afterwards would always be in danger of the insert, riser or bolt slipping or snapping in some manner, resulting in the limb flying back and striking the archer.
Anything repair I did would only make an unsafe bow even more unsafe to use.
From my past in the bicycle industry I know that bicycle mechanics will sometimes conduct an unethical repair on a bicycle to please a customer, even though they know the part they are repairing has been compromised and is unsafe. They do this because they want to make the sale and get paid, and are putting their own private greed before the safety of the client.
I was faced with a similar dilemma, except I was repairing a weapon/tool used for hunting as opposed to a bicycle.
How unsafe was the insert? Honestly, it is an unknown.
It is possible if I repaired it with a tap and die set that it would function normally and never pose a risk.
Or it is possible if I repaired it that it would break under pressure (as compound bows often are put under a great deal of pressure), and then pose a serious safety hazard to the archer using it.
So because it is an unknown, I give it a base 50/50 chance it is unsafe.
And do I really want it on my conscious if it does break and injure the customer? Not really.
I also believe in karma*.
* My idiot neighbour who assaulted me back on April 30th was in a car accident about a week later and totaled his car. He cut off a bus and got T-boned, and he got a neck injury. So from my perspective, that is karma in action right there. Especially since the accident happened right outside my window and I got a front row seat to the police and ambulance, etc. Other incidents in my past have also resulted in me receiving weeks or months of good luck (good karma), so there are multiple instances where clearly I did the right thing and ended up reaping the lucky rewards.
So what did I do about the PSE Nova compound bow?
I tell the customer what I had discovered about his bow, that it is unsafe, and that it is basically only good for parts - not the riser with the bad bolt insert clearly, but the rest of the bow was in good or decent condition.
I therefore offered to give him $20 for the pieces so I can use the bow for parts. He accepted my offer. He showed up later that evening after 7 PM to pick up his bow case, arrows, etc and my $20.
I got out of it:
Two Y cables.
One bowstring.
Two cams that are in good condition.
Two compound limbs.
Two limb bolts.
A peep sight.
An old 3 point sight.
A whisker biscuit arrow rest that is in decent condition.
An old metal stabilizer with camouflage paint on it.
Oh and an aluminum riser that effectively would make a good paper weight.
I wasn't expecting for him to let me have the sights, arrow rest and stabilizer, but he evidently didn't care about them. So they were basically a bonus.
I think he was mostly just thankful to get rid of a junk "lemon" of a bow and could go get himself something nicer.
Indeed he would be hard pressed to find a buyer for a broken old compound bow, as most compound archers prefer to buy the "newest 2018 model" that is available. The resale value of old compound bows is pretty bad as they depreciate in a hurry.
ABOUT PSE NOVA COMPOUND BOWS
Not all PSE Novas are "old" per se.
The bows and variants of them were made between 1997 to 2011, with various draw lengths, draw weights, brace heights, alternative designs with different let offs and IBO speeds. The model was eventually discontinued, likely due to poor sales.
During its heyday the PSE Nova was considered to be a good starter bow for beginners who wanted to get into compound archery without having to pay an arm and a leg for a decent bow.
You can see specs for different versions of the bow by visiting: http://compoundbowchoice.com/brands/pse/nova/specs/
Old used PSE Novas now typically sell on eBay for about $75 USD, but it is a case of buyer beware, as the bow will likely have problems with it after years of use (or misuse).
The PSE Nova was never considered to be a desirable bow. Rather, they were a cheap "decent quality compound bow" for a reasonable price. They are not something a person would want in their collection for historical reasons. My vintage Jennings and vintage Black Hawk compound bows on the other hand, those are collectors items and definitely desirable.
So what should I do with those spare parts?
Honestly, I have lots of options.
I could:
Build a wooden compound bow riser, with roughly the same dimensions of the original Nova riser.
Make a "Frankenstein compound bow" where I mix and match parts from different bows.
Make a stone compound bow*.
Make a stone compound crossbow*.
Build a compound crossbow.
Build a reverse compound crossbow.
Or... just keep the parts handy for whenever I might need them.
I am leaning towards options 1, 4 and 7.
Whatever I do with them, this is a project for me to work on during the winter when I have more spare time.
* The stone compound bow is an interesting concept. Essentially the arrow acts like a plunger that goes forward and bumps a pellet that is roughly the size of a marble (or literally a marble), and then the pellet / marble is the projectile that shoots forward through a barrel and is launched towards the target. Sort of like the "arrow gun" shown below.
In the case of the stone compound crossbow, there is no need for the arrow itself. The pellet / marble is loaded into a barrel with slits down the sides. The bowstring then pushes the pellet through the barrel and it is launched towards the target.
The stone crossbow is an ancient design that worked a bit like a slingshot, but modern variants have determined that the bow gets way more accuracy if it uses a barrel design instead.
A reverse compound stone crossbow... would that be a first of its kind? Has anyone but me even thought of making such a thing? Am I the first?
I bet Joerg from the Slingshot Channel on YouTube hasn't even thought of that, and he is a pretty crazy German guy who qualifies as a mad scientist in my opinion.
Like the insane video below in which he builds a trebuchet that shoots saw blades...
Because clearly if you are going to build something that crazy, you need a German mad scientist to do it.
(To prevent spam I often replace @ with {atsymbol} and add a space before the .com. There are bots these days which glean emails from websites and compile them into lists to be sold to companies that deal in spam.)
The new email just forwards to one of my other accounts, but I needed it for new Project Gridless business cards I am making which will promote my Compound Bow Repair service.
I am going to staple up some copies of the business card at the Toronto Archery Range once in awhile to drum up business my repair service. Plus it is handy to have whenever I see someone who is trying to fix their broken compound bow.
The business card I designed is simple and to the point. I don't need to clutter it with extra info.
Note also that I did not include my phone number. Last thing I need is people phoning me while I am changing Richard's diapers, while I am teaching an archery lesson, or while I am having a nap. (When Richard naps, I try to have a nap too.) Email is best in my opinion, especially since people often send me photos of their damaged bow so I have a better idea of what is broken.
That is what the Shoot Tech Systems Raptor Advance Compound Bow represents.
Complete insanity.
Specs
FPS410 - 485(Depends on different ammo weight.)
Adjustable Draw Weight 40 – 80 lbs
Adjustable Let Off60-80%
Axle-To-Axle Length32"
Mass weight4.8 lbs
Brace height7"
Doubles as a giant slingshot. What????
I am not saying I am for or against this style of compound bow. I haven't shot it. I don't know how well it shoots.
But from a design perspective, whoever engineered this clearly wanted to completely change how a compound bow is supposed to work and threw out all the previous designs to make something completely new and different.
If someone brought me this bow and asked me to repair it I would need to be careful about where to even start, depending on what the exact problem was. It would not be your standard "Oh can you fix my compound bow?" situation. Even if it was a minor repair issue I would be very fascinated to get a look at the inner workings of this bow's unusual design.
Would it be fun to repair? Maybe.
Would it be interesting? Definitely.
According to reviews the bow provides a buttery smooth draw cycle, but with blistering speeds that put even high end crossbows to shame. Clearly STS should be taking this tech and building a crossbow version.
...
Except they do make a crossbow apparently, but it doesn't look anything like the compound bow. More insanity. Below, the STS Raptor 32 Tactical.
Of course they had to put the word "Tactical" in the name. You almost wonder if they did that as a joke. Who is going to buy this???
Good Evening, I recently dug my old compound bow out of my parents house. I won’t lie, it’s probably 18yrs old, has been laying dormant for 17yrs, and has never been re-srung. I don’t want to part with it, but I would really like to have it safetied and restrung, so that I can start using it again. I also have a crossbow that is in the same condition that I would like to have looked at. Hopefully, you are able to help me out. Thanks Best, Brandon
Reply #1
Hello Brandon!
What make and model is the compound bow?
Do you still have the compound bowstring and cables? Doesn't matter what their status is in terms of broken or damaged, it is more handy to know how long they are/etc in term of measurements by having the originals.
Is anything else wrong with the compound bow that I should be aware of? Eg. Damaged cams, missing pieces?
I don't normally deal with crossbows, but I might be able to help with that too. Same questions as above for the crossbow. I cannot guarantee I can help with that, but it won't hurt to discuss and see.
Photos are also potentially helpful if there are specific issues you are worried about.
Have a good weekend!
Sincerely,
Charles Moffat
ProjectGridless.ca
Q #2
Hey Charles, Sorry for the delayed reply. The compound bow is a Nova, and is still strung, so I have the original string. I don’t believe there are any missing or damaged parts. As for the crossbow, no worries if you can’t fix it. I more just looking to have it restrung. It needs a new sight, but I think that’s it. More pics attached. Best, Brandon
Reply #2
Hey Brandon!
So you just need to have both of them restrung? Nothing else wrong with them?
I am going to save you some money then. You don't need to be talking to me at all. Instead I recommend you making a visit to Ballistic Bowstrings in Angus.
Their place is about 50 minutes north of Vaughan. They used to be in Bradford which was closer, but they moved back in March. I recommend making an appointment.
They can set you up with new custom strings for both your compound and your crossbow.
I get all of my strings from them, so even if it was me installing the strings for you, it is really them who is making the strings. So you might as well cut out the middle man (me, in this case).
You can check out their website at: http://www.ballisticbowstrings.com/
It is possible to just order online and have delivered, but the last person I recommended to them went there in person and they strung his crossbow for him, and being there in person means they can double-check to make sure it fits properly. So going there in person has its advantages. You can read about his experience at: http://www.projectgridless.ca/2018/04/crossbow-bowstrings-and-how-to-replace.html
I do know two people local here in Toronto who also makes strings, but they only make bowstrings for longbows and recurves. They don't make any for compounds or crossbows.
Please let me know how it goes. It is handy to get feedback from people.
Hi,
Can you give me a call to discuss fitting a compound bow.
Thanks
Stephen C.
A
Hello Stephen!
Fitting a compound bow? By that I am going to guess you are talking about adjusting it to your draw length.
If you are buying a new compound bow in a store, they usually adjust it to your draw length in the store.
If it is an used compound bow, then it helps to have the manual handy, but it is still possible to adjust it without the manual by changing the position of the cables (and sometimes pins) on the cams. A measure of experience in making such adjustments also helps.
If you are looking for me to help you adjust the bow to your draw length, that is a feat best done in person and not over the phone.
There are YouTube videos about how to adjust the draw length / fitting compound bows if you want to attempt to do this on your own.
If you meant something else by fitting, please elaborate.
If you have any questions please feel free to ask.
Although it really depends on what the customer needs and what the bow is capable of. All bows have for example a minimum and maximum draw weight / draw length, and you can adjust between the two limitations fairly easily.
It also helps if you have a copy of the owner's manual with respect to changing the draw length/weight, as there are differences between manufacturers and models, but generally speaking there are certain similarities that are common to all compound bows.
A simple task like "adjusting the draw weight" I would argue is something that 70% of the time you probably don't need me for. (It is the other 30% of the time which you do, and that mostly is due to more modern compound bows that allow you to radically change draw weights.)
Below are two such bows:
The Bear Cruzer (left), which has an adjustable draw weight of 5 lbs to 70 lbs.
The Diamond Infinite Edge (right), which has an adjustable draw weight of 5 lbs to 70 lbs.
The Diamond Infinite Edge model came out in 2013 and it was the first affordable "broad range" compound bow which could be adjusted anywhere from 5 lbs to 70 lbs, and with a draw length that could be adjusted anywhere from 13 inches to 30 inches, with a maximum let off of 75% (actual let off varied on the poundage and draw length).
But attaining that broad range of adjustability meant the cams on the bow are rather complex, and the owner really should have the manual before attempting to adjust it.
The adjustability and the affordable price of the Infinite Edge made it very popular with new archers and old archers who just wanted a super-adjustable bow - that doesn't need a bow press to adjust. That popularity led to huge sales, and this did not go unnoticed by other manufacturers.
The Bear Cruzer model came out in 2015, boasting almost identical stats, but with 1 extra inch of adjustable draw length (12 to 30 inches instead of 13 to 30). As you can see from the photo above comparing the two, they have a lot of similarities.
Also in 2015, Diamond came out with the Infinite Edge Pro model and improved upon their design, giving the new version a maximum let off of 80%.
Below is a close up image of the cam design of the Infinite Edge Pro:
Looks pretty complicated, right? And this is pretty standard for modern compound bows. Almost all of them now use a complex cam system which requires the owner to be using the owner's manual, or for them to hire someone who is familiar with fixing such things.
Next lets compare the cam system of an older model compound bow, and see how much has changed:
Look how simple that is. Not much complexity, is there? The above cam really only has 3 settings, and they are all for adjusting the draw length. See the following post to learn more.
Adjusting the Draw Weight on older compound bows, and to a large extent on modern compound bows really comes down to adjusting the limb bolts (shown on the right).
If you want a lighter poundage you turn the bolts counter-clockwise, starting with the top limb bolt and then the lower limb bolt.
If you want a heavier poundage you turn the bolts clockwise, starting with the bottom limb bolt and then the top limb bolt.
I recommend turning either by 1/2 turns or 1 full turn each time, keeping both the top and bottom even in a progressive manner. It takes longer, but it is safer for the bow. Do not turn the top bolt say 5 times or more all at once and then do the same with the bottom bolt. Making sudden rapid changes like that puts extra strain on the bolts, the limbs and the cams. You want to adjust it slowly and safely.
If you think you have reached your desired weight, you can check by drawing back the bow and see how comfortable or hard it feels. (Having the Owner's Manual is handy at this stage for determining the poundage.) You then repeat this process until you reach a draw weight that feels right for you (or measures the desired amount on a bow scale).
If you don't have an Owner's Manual, but you want to be really precise, then you will need a bow scale.
I use a 100 lb digital bow scale from Allen. I use it both for adjusting draw weights on compounds, but also for the tillering process when I am making longbows and flatbows. When tillering a bow, it is very handy to have.
Costs about $32 CDN on Amazon.ca. (This is just info, not a paid promotion. Notice the lack of links.)
Simply turn it on, attach the hook like you would a mechanical release, and then pull back until you reach the let off point.
The scale then tells you the peak poundage that was reached during the draw cycle (or change the settings and it will tell you the holding weight).
So yes, if you really want to measure the precise poundage then you will want a digital scale. (Also works well for weighing babies and toddlers who don't want to stand still.)
So what do you need a Compound Bow Repairman for then?
Honestly, most of what I do is NOT tuning. I can certainly do it if the customer needs me to, but repair work is usually things like:
Reassembling a compound bow that has been dryfired and is now in pieces.
Restringing a compound bow that has been dryfired and the string and/or cables fell off.
Replacing parts that are broken, bent or otherwise damaged.
Etc.
I also find that some places refuse to do certain types of repair work and try to sell the customer a new bow instead. They see an older (possibly vintage) compound bow, they think it will be too hard to repair, and they don't want to bother trying to repair it when they could just sell you a new compound bow instead (and get a commission).
In my case, I typically don't sell compound bows. I will sometimes buy compound bows for parts, or buy compound bows, repair them and then sell them, but most of the time my "stock of compound bows" is limited to my personal bows that are not for sale. So there is no motivation for me to sell a customer a brand new compound bow, because I don't sell such things.
I also really enjoy the process of fixing compound bows, especially older / vintage models. So to me part of the fun is taking something old and broken, and fixing it again. (Often I also clean it too, so it looks shiny and new-ish in photos and when I give it back to the customer.)
I don't know of anyone (anywhere!) who is into repairing vintage compound bows.
So do you need me to adjust the draw weight on your compound bow?
If it is an older model, you can probably do it yourself just by adjusting the bolts.
If it is a modern model with a larger variance in the draw weight, you probably need to read the owner's manual or you will need a repairman like myself. You can certainly try to adjust it yourself using just the limb bolts. If the variance in draw weights is comparatively small (say 40 to 60 lbs, instead of 5 to 70), then you probably won't need me at all.
* Adjusting the Draw Cycle
So you might have noticed that way up at the top I mentioned that some new compound bows (mostly that came out within the last 2-3 years) also have an option to adjust the draw cycle of the bow. This adjustment allows the archer to choose between.
A harsher draw cycle and a harder wall before reaching the let off, which stores more kinetic energy and offers more FPS speed.
A smoother draw cycle and softer wall before reaching the let off, which offers more user comfort and less FPS speed.
Thus the archer can perhaps start with a smoother draw cycle and a lower poundage, and as their strength grows they can adjust the settings so that it becomes harsher / faster as they progressively get stronger.
People with shoulder and/or back problems may also wish to use the smoother settings.
The compound bows that currently offer this feature typically cost $1,000 CDN or more, and it is a particular type of person who spends that much on a compound in the first place. Typically, such a person also buys a new compound every year or every two years, and their old compounds end up collecting dust in a closet or in a case waiting for the day when its owner might be struck by the thought of "Hey, I should shoot that old Hoyt or Matthews sometime."
Adjusting the Draw Cycle on one of these modern compound bows is no more complicated than adjusting the draw length - provided of course that you have the owner's manual.
Never, ever throw away the owner's manual.
Sometimes you can find a copy of an owner's manual online, but there is no guarantee you can find it. So please don't throw them out.
Hi there! I have a vintage " Barnett wildcat C5 crossbow " the string's broken needs being replaced , can you fix it ? If okay, please let Me know. (I also will need direction and working hours.) Thank You Kamal
A
Hello Kamal!
I don't make new bowstrings, but I know who does.
Ballistic Bowstrings is a company just north of Toronto near Bradford.
Q2 Hi Charles , Thanks for reply, regarding my request. Because I don't have technical information, is it possible for you to order the right string for me and I bring my crossbow to you to get fixed? In case you accept, you order for me and I can e-transfer the cost in advance to you (if I know how much I need to send). If this doesn't work, can you lead me to any place where I can fix my crossbow please? Regards Kamal
A2
Hey Kamal!
So I have taken the liberty of looking up the technical specs for a Barnett Wildcat C5 for you.
I have zero experience ordering crossbow strings from manufacturers. I usually make my own crossbow strings or buy bowstrings that are premade. The amount of effort required to make them is not worth my time.
Barnett Wildcat C5 Crossbow Specs and Technical Info
Features
Aluminum Riser
CNC Machined 7/8" Picatinny Rail
Gas Assist Molded Composite Stock
CROSSWIRE String and Cable System
High Definition Camo Finish
26" Axle to Axle
Specs
Manufacturer, Barnett
Cocking Device, Crank Optional
Velocity, Up to 320 fps
Foot Pounds of Energy, 91
Power Stroke, 12.25"
Mass Weight, 8 lbs
Draw Weight, 150 lbs
Length, 36"
Width, 28"
If you only need the bowstring replaced you can just order it online from various sources:
If it is the cables which are damaged, then you should possibly contact Barnett directly. You can do so at http://www.barnettcrossbows.com
NOTE FOR READERS
I don't fix crossbows. I do make my own crossbows for fun, but I typically only repair compound bows. Or as I like to call it, "compound bow surgery".
UPDATE
Follow Up Thank You
Hi Dear Charles,
Thanks
for reply, I fixed the crossbow. Of course it was because of your helpful information and leading me to company called "Ballistic
Bowstrings". They're professional (but retired) couple doing work
at home.
They
charged me 150 bucks for material and labor and it is good now. Again I
appreciate your help and advice. God bless you and thanks again.
Okay so someone contacted me recently regarding a crossbow which had been dryfired and was wondering if I could fix it, since I currently fix compound bows.
So I normally don't fix crossbows and I made the mistake of mentioning it to my wife, and she vetoed the idea (besides the point I already have 3 crossbows in the house and have a hobby of building them). Apparently she puts her foot down on having any more crossbows in the house. My limit is 3. No more than that.
Below are several photos they sent me of the crossbow which had been dryfired.
So I might not be able to fix it myself, but I can certainly provide instructions for HOW TO FIX IT and that way the owner can fix it themselves using the instructions below.
How to Reset the Bowstring a Dryfired Crossbow
Or... How to Remove an Old Bowstring and Add a New Bowstring on a Crossbow
Honestly the steps below work for both.
Step One - Reduce the Poundage, if possible.
On a compound bow there is typically a way to reduce the poundage. You do this with a Allen key (aka Hex key) at the point where the limbs meet the stock. See the photo below. However many crossbows don't necessarily have such an option. However if it does, now is a good time to use it.
If the poundage is low enough the bowstring should be significantly less taut and more easy to remove. Skip to Step Three if you were able to do this. If the bowstring is still very taut, you are going to need a bow press, in which case go to Step Two. Note - Do not remove the limbs entirely. You only want to reduce the poundage, not remove the bow limbs entirely.
Step One B - Use a Dummy Bowstring.
I am adding this as an optional way to reduce the poundage. This is a method you can do if you don't have a bow press. It is a bit more of an unorthodox method, which is why I am making this section in different colours of text, to note that people should use caution when using this method. This method only works on crossbows however. This method won't work on a regular compound bow unless you also have a tillering stick (totally different topic, tillering sticks are used by bowyers during the tillering process, but that is something to talk about another day).
What you do is get a nice long bowstring that is strong enough for your crossbow and place it in a loop going around the axles, tying the ends together in a Reef Knot (aka, a Square Knot). It should be completely slack and extra long so that the string can reach about 3/4s or 4/5ths of the way to the cocking mechanism without even pulling. Then you pull back the dummy bowstring the extra 1/4 or 1/5th to a cocking position on your crossbow, thus causing your normal bowstring to now become slack - and thus make it easier to remove or adjust.
When you are later ready to remove the dummy bowstring, simply pull back on the string with your hand to make it tight, hold on, release the trigger and hold it down, and then slowly let down until it is completely slack again. Loosen and remove the Reef Knot, keep the dummy bowstring for the next time you might need it.
Step Two - Place the Crossbow in a Bow Press and Tighten.
If you cannot reduce the poundage then you are probably going to need a bow press. Pretty much a necessity with a lot of modern crossbows. If you decide to use this method it is probably best you skip Step One entirely.
I recently wrote a post about Five Ways to Make a Homemade Bow Press, which I recommend reading as it is certainly cheaper to just build a bow press than go out and try to find / buy one.
The trick about bow presses is that you might only need it the one time. So it doesn't really make any sense to buy a $200 bow press just to use it one time.
Once tightened, your bowstring should be slack and ready to be removed.
An example of a homemade bow press that works on crossbows.
Step Three - Remove the Bowstring completely or partially.
See the loop on the cam in the 3rd photo? Not the loops that fit on the axle of the limbs, but the one which loops like a 9 on to the middle of the cam itself. Start by removing that and unwind or untangle it from anything.
Depending on the situation you might only need to partially remove the bowstring. If this is the case, awesome. It should be a fairly simple task of removing one section of the bowstring, rewrapping it around the cam, and replacing the loop.
eg. If you can get away with leaving parts of the bowstring still fed through the stock, good, just leave that in place. Basically if you can leave much of it already in place, please do. Less work for later.
The cam loop should always be the first thing you remove, and the last thing you put back in place.
Step Four - Carefully Place the New Bowstring.
Note that I said "New Bowstring". The steps described on this page work for either resetting your old string or adding a new one. This is a good point to decide whether you want to keep your old bowstring, or use a new one. If there is heavy or medium fraying on your bowstring, probably time for a new one. Minor barely noticeable fraying? Not such a big deal. Crossbow bowstrings are rated for many multiple times the poundage of the actual crossbow. If one strand snaps it is not biggie. It is when multiple have snapped that you need to start worrying. (Sort of like the front and back brakes on a bicycle, ideally both should work - but if one doesn't work then the other set of brakes should save your life.)
Okay, so this is the tricky part. Modern compound crossbows do not make this part easy.
Start with the axle loops.
Feed the bowstring through the gap in the stock.
Following a diagram if possible, correctly rewrap the bowstring around the cams. If you don't have a diagram, find some good high resolution photos of your model of crossbow and then follow the setup there and match it exactly.
Double check that everything is correctly in place before proceeding to the next steps.
Place the cam loops last. Depending on the bow press you are using, you may want to place the hardest to reach one first. Sometimes bow presses are designed in a way that makes it annoying to reach one of them. This way when you place the last cam loop it should be easy to reach.
Triple check everything is correctly in place.
Step Five - Loosen the Bow Press or Retighten the Poundage.
Really depends which steps you did, Step 1 or Step 2 or both. Or Step 1 B. Whatever.
Once your crossbow is out of the bow press / back to its original poundage you should find a safe place to fire a few shots with it (with actual crossbow bolts this time) to make sure everything is in good working order.
Step Six - Never Dryfire a Compound Crossbow Ever Again.
Probably the most important step.
The correct / safe way to uncock a crossbow is to load a bolt and fire a shot into a target (or into a sandbag, a good patch of dirt with no rocks, etc). Never dryfire it.
Even if a manufacturer is bragging about how great and durable their crossbows are, you should never ever dry fire one. You are just asking to be the exception, the one person who has theirs break. Don't be a dumbass and don't make yourself into a statistic.
This is one of the reasons I really like Excalibur Crossbows - they use recurve limbs instead of cams. If the bowstring ever comes off, then you can more easily place it back on. Easy to fix, super powerful.
The whole point of compound crossbows is to make them more compact, but to me I would rather have something that is easy to repair. As someone who makes my own crossbows, they are also easier to build if they are straight or recurved limbs, with no cams.
Note to Self
Sometime in the future I should try making a double limbed crossbow (similar to a Penobscot bow). That should be fun.
Lately I keep thinking of kewl science fair projects I could do with my son in the future when he is older. I think that would be an interesting science fair project... not sure if schools would appreciate kids bringing crossbows to school for a science fair however, even if it was a bizarre looking Penobscot-style crossbow.
Considering how schools already have so many easily upset snowflakes these days, I can only imagine what it will be like 10 years from now.
Probably should build a catapult or trebuchet instead. That would be okay. Or maybe a ballista, like the Roman style ballista below. Oooooo!
So awhile back in October I made a note of writing a post titled "How to Make a Homemade Bow Press". But I never wrote it.
So I thought about it, and since YOU - the readers - might not like a particular design due to the materials I determined it might make more sense to show 5 different ways to make a homemade bow press, that way you the reader can decide which design you like best - and it thus best suits your needs with respect to materials, price, time, etc.
#1. The Steel Bow Press
Below is a nice steel design (and well painted), which tightens using a crank on a threaded piece of metal.
#2. Portable Bow Press
Below is a nice portable design, handy for having in the bush or taking up north to the cabin.
#3. Clamp Bow Press
Who needs a bow press when you have a long clamp? A few minor modifications and it is also good to go, and fairly portable too. The 3rd photo below is the same basic design, but using wood instead of metal for several key parts.
#4. Wood + Weight or Bungee Cord Design
Okay, so the design below uses a bungee cord - but if it was me doing, I would skip the bungee cord and have a slot on the top where you could place dumbbell weights. However no one can deny the design below does work, as that is a compound crossbow with a lot more poundage involved.
#5. Bungee Cord Attachments Bow Press
The design below is very portable, and has a similar design to #2 above, but takes it a step further to make it even more portable.
Extra Note for Fun
Also while I was searching for designs I accidentally found this... which was so awesome I had to save and share it here. Because who doesn't want to shoot a wooden compound bow, wherein even the cams are made of wood.
Okay, so someone recently contacted me for compound bow repairs regarding their Bear compound bow which had been dryfired.
Note - I don't ask WHO dryfired the bow - I will just assume the owner accidentally gave it to a friend who immediately dryfired it before they could warn them not to...
When a compound bow is dryfired it rips the cables / bowstring off of the cams (pulleys) and can even damage the axle(s) which hold the cams. There is also a chance that the limbs and other parts of the bow could also be damaged.
In this case however the axles and various other parts were undamaged, only the bowstring came off.
Therefore this is actually a fairly easy thing to fix.
STEP ONE - MEASURE THE POUNDAGE
Determine the poundage of the bow by measuring the placement of the limbs on the riser. (This way when you reduce the poundage you will be able to return the bow to its original poundage later.) For best results I recommend measuring both top and bottom limbs to make sure they were even in the first place. It is possible that one or both of the limbs have been loosened during the dryfire, so the limbs should really be "reset" anyway to ensure they are a consistent poundage.
Write down the measurements just in case you get distracted and forget.
If the bow was already in good condition and strung, you could use a bow scale to measure the poundage instead, but since it is unstrung and needs to be strung, measuring the position of the limbs/riser is your better bet. STEP TWO - COUNT THE TURNS
Slowly reduce the poundage of the limbs using an Allen key. Start with the top limb and do 1 full turn. Then the bottom limb and 1 full turn. Repeat the process while counting the number of full turns.
Keep track of the number of full turns it takes to lower the compound bow to its lowest possible poundage setting. Take note if it takes an extra 1/6th, 1/3rd, 1/2, 2/3rds, or 5/6ths of a turn to do this.
Afterwards note down on paper that it took X# of full turns (+ whatever fraction) to reach the lowest point. Knowing this number will be handy when you are later returning the bow to its original poundage and is basically a secondary method of checking that the poundage ends up matching the original poundage.
STEP THREE - RESET THE BOWSTRING ON THE CAMS
You need to wrap the cables/bowstring around the cams correctly - how exactly will sometimes vary on the manufacturer and model. When in doubt, consult photos of the cams of the model in question. If unable to do that you will want to look at how the cam is designed and determine which way the cables / bowstring should be properly attached / wrapped around the cams.
During this you may need to use some physical effort to "string" the bow. This is why you lowered the poundage however, to make the stringing part so much easier. Depending on what the lowest possible setting is this could be really easy or really hard, and thus this process might still require some grunting and physical labour. There are some tricks to doing this however. It is obviously easier to use a bow press, however that can also be unnecessary if you know the other tricks of doing this.
Trick #1. You can lock the cams in place using bolts - like in the image below. This makes attaching the bowstring much easier by placing the pressure on the bolts individually.
Bolts locking the cams in place on a Model T Jennings Compound Bow
Trick #2. In the event you cannot physically get the cams to lock in place, cannot string it for whatever reason, etc - you can just build a homemade bow press.
Homemade Bow Press made of Wood, Chain, Metal
Homemade Bow Press made of Metal
Note To Self - Make a future post about "How to Make a Homemade Bow Press". In the meantime, just go Google that topic as there are plenty of examples online for how to make your own.
Trick #3. A quick and dirty temporary alternative to a bow press is to attach a strong bungee cord to both ends of the bow and clamp it in place so it cannot be accidentally. Then take a metal rod and twist it into the middle of the bungee cord so that it tightens. Keep tightening until it is suitable tight enough for your needs. Then clamp the metal rod in place. Reset the bowstring, unclamp the rod and untwist it gradually, remove the clamps for the bungee cord, remove the bungee cord... and done. It is now strung.
I have never needed to use option #3, but I am listing it for educational purposes.
STEP FOUR - RESET THE POUNDAGE TO ORIGINAL POSITION
Start with the top limb and do one full turn. Then the bottom limb one full turn. Repeat this process until you have completed the full number of turns (+ the fraction if any).
Double-check that the measurement back in Step One is the same. It is? Good. Unless you did something wrong and forgot to do something it should be the same.
Model T Jennings
STEP FIVE - TAKE PHOTOGRAPHS
Honestly, recording what the bow looks like when in its full strung position + desired poundage is just a good habit to get into in my opinion. It is visual record keeping. For me it is an excuse to take photos, write a blog post and record everything. For you, it could end up being handy in the future if you ever need to repair your compound bow a 2nd time.
CONCLUSIONS
So there you go. It is now restrung.
Was it really that hard? No, not really. Helps if you know what you are doing and confident about your knowledge of the topic.
If you need compound bow repairs in Toronto, you know who to contact.
$40 per hour + the cost of parts (if any). Feel free to compare my hourly rate with what other people are charging.
Here is a list of laws for bow hunting in Ontario. #1. You must be over 16 years of age and have a valid Ontario Outdoors Card. #2. You ...
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