Take a close look at the rather simple trigger design on the crossbow above. I am thinking of making something similar for a new crossbow.
However I am also thinking I might make it a bit more complicated, so it can be a more modern trigger shape.
Showing posts with label Homemade Crossbow. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Homemade Crossbow. Show all posts
Crossbow Trigger Design
Take a close look at the rather simple trigger design on the crossbow above. I am thinking of making something similar for a new crossbow.
However I am also thinking I might make it a bit more complicated, so it can be a more modern trigger shape.
Homemade Crossbow with Decorative Leather
Above and below are photos of a homemade crossbow which were posted on Facebook (I don't know who the original creator was). What is interesting however is how they used decorative leather on the crossbow limbs and also on the foot stirrup.
I also really liked trigger, as it looks like it was handforged out of iron. Altogether this is awesome looking crossbow. Just look at the stitching on the leather!
The Homemade Stemmler Crossbow, Part I
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| Stemmler Logo |
At the time I decided it was worth salvaging. Possibly to repair it or turn it into something else.
Years later, I am currently working on a new project to turn the old broken Stemmler recurve bow into a homemade crossbow. Hence the title: The Homemade Stemmler Crossbow.
Part I. It is going to take multiple posts to cover this story. Subscribe to Project Gridless if you want updates for when more posts on this subject appear. I will likely do a video of the finished crossbow too, so you can also subscribe to Project Gridless on YouTube.
My goal is to make it into a folding crossbow, so the limbs can unlocked from their position and be folded towards the stock for easy transport. It won't be very powerful (the original limbs were 45 lbs) and I am using part of the working limbs to attach it to the stock, so I am losing about one fifth of the working limbs. When it is eventually a crossbow it will also be losing a good chunk of its draw distance, so I am expecting the final crossbow to only have a draw weight of 25 lbs - which means it will effectively be a toy crossbow.
But whatever. I am having fun enjoying my winter working on this project. When I am done I will have a "Stemmler Crossbow" and have turned a piece of garbage into a working crossbow.
Below you can see the two broken pieces of the Stemmler, and see where the upper limb snapped off from the previous owner. Was it old? Did the previous owner overdraw it? Who knows. We shall see what happens.
Using a saw, I trimmed the broken limb for a smoother edge. I then measured it compared to the other limb and cut it in the same location, so both limbs are now the same length.
I still need to epoxy part of the broken limb as part of it has delaminated.
I will also need to reinforce part of the working limbs, as putting pressure on that section without reinforcement could cause it to snap again. So the section of the working limb where it will be attached to the crossbow stock needs to be reinforced - I am thinking of using oak, and I am thinking I should reinforce both the front and back.
Once that is done I need to drill holes for bolting it to a mechanism for attaching to the crossbow. The mechanism needs to be able to be locked into position, and to be able to be easily unlocked. So I need to research possible designs. I am currently thinking of using a steel deadbolt approach.
I have a stock I was making for a different crossbow I could use. But I am also thinking maybe I should make a new stock just for this project, and use a different style of trigger mechanism this time around. Previously I have used a drop-pin mechanism, but now I am thinking I should try using a Roman-style rolling trigger.
If I do make a new stock, I think I will make this stock wider than last time by laminating two pieces of oak together. It will be more comfortable to shape the handle and stock.
I could also in theory use a spring-loaded trigger, but I worry the spring would not be strong enough. Plus springs get weaker over time, and I would prefer a mechanism that doesn't need a replacement spring years later.
I am thinking I will use a steel stirrup this time around, for faster reloading - and it will double as a bipod for more accurate shooting. I also want it to fold for easy transport too.
Brass sights. Yup. I wanna make a brass sight for this one. Should be fun. V-shaped sights.
Note
Yes, what you are reading above is basically a To Do List / Checklist for my own personal use. I find this is useful during the design process so I can plan out each stage of a project. Helps get it done faster by creating goals I can set and then do.
Crossbow Bowstrings
Question
"Crossbow Repair"
I need a new string replacement please call or text me at [phone number removed for privacy reasons].ThanksLance
Answer
Hello Lance!I don't make crossbow strings, but I do know who does.Go to Ballistic Bowstrings in Angus, Ontario.http://www.ballisticbowstrings.com/
Sincerely,
Charles Moffat
ProjectGridless.ca
Follow Up Email
Thank you!Lance
Notes
So yes... I don't make crossbow strings for clients. But people keep contacting me asking me this same question or similar question.
Examples:
- People looking for crossbow strings.
- People looking for crossbow replacement parts.
- People looking for crossbow repairs.
So yes, I do make my own crossbows - and I do repair compound bows. But I currently am not in the business of repairing crossbows. (And yes, there is a difference between crossbows and compound bows... and compound crossbows.)
And I do make my own crossbow strings, for my own private use. I do not sell them. Ever.
I also make / repair my own bowstrings, but I do not sell bow strings either.
So whenever people come asking for bowstrings (for regular bows or crossbows or compound bows) I always point them to Ballistic Bowstrings. For the following reasons.
- They make excellent bowstrings.
- They make all types of bowstrings. Regular, compound, crossbow. Custom jobs.
- Their prices are reasonable. Not cheap, but not expensive either.
- They are right here in Ontario. Not far from Toronto. And I prefer to support local craftsmen.
Regarding crossbow replacement parts...
I do buy old compound bows and take them apart for their parts. Typically I offer $15 to $25 for your old junker compound just so I can strip it for parts.
I am not *currently* in the business of buying / selling crossbows or their parts. Not yet at least. This might change in the future. But for now, just assume that I don't have any crossbow parts at all.
Regarding crossbow repairs...
I am not currently in the business of repairing crossbows either. I can restring a crossbow if need be, but I don't currently do any other kind of crossbow repair. I am focusing solely on compound bows. Not crossbows.
How do I know if my crossbow or compound bow is a junker?
Honestly, here is how you know:
Try to sell it.
If the only offers you receive are people interested in buying it for the parts, or if you receive zero offers period, that means it is not worth repairing and is essentially junk. At which point it really should just be sold for parts.
So if it is a compound bow, let me know and I can make you an offer.
If it is a crossbow, I am currently not interested. Maybe in 2020 I might change my mind and get into the business of repairing crossbows / buying junker crossbows for parts, but at present... nope. Not interested.
Also to anyone thinking their old junker is worth more than $25... nope. It isn't. Old junker compounds are basically a dime a dozen. And they are buyer beware too, as they are used and could have unforeseen problems. Getting $15 to $25 for your garbage is generous as I don't even use most of the parts. Most of them end up in a box, unused.
In other news...
I am currently working on a new project to turn an old broken Stemmler recurve bow into a homemade crossbow. My goal is to make it into a folding crossbow, so the limbs can be folded towards the stock for easy transport. It won't be very powerful (the original limbs were 45 lbs) and I am using part of the working limbs to attach it to the stock, so I am losing about one fifth of the working limbs. When it is a crossbow it will also be losing a good chunk of its draw distance, so I am expecting the final crossbow to only have a draw weight of 25 lbs - which means it will effectively be a toy crossbow.
But whatever. I am having fun enjoying my winter working on this project. When I am done I will have a "Stemmler Crossbow" and have turned a piece of garbage into a working crossbow.
Happy Shooting!
How to Fix a Dryfired Crossbow
Okay so someone contacted me recently regarding a crossbow which had been dryfired and was wondering if I could fix it, since I currently fix compound bows.
So I normally don't fix crossbows and I made the mistake of mentioning it to my wife, and she vetoed the idea (besides the point I already have 3 crossbows in the house and have a hobby of building them). Apparently she puts her foot down on having any more crossbows in the house. My limit is 3. No more than that.
Below are several photos they sent me of the crossbow which had been dryfired.
So I might not be able to fix it myself, but I can certainly provide instructions for HOW TO FIX IT and that way the owner can fix it themselves using the instructions below.
How to Reset the Bowstring a Dryfired Crossbow
Or... How to Remove an Old Bowstring and Add a New Bowstring on a Crossbow
Honestly the steps below work for both.
Step One - Reduce the Poundage, if possible.
On a compound bow there is typically a way to reduce the poundage. You do this with a Allen key (aka Hex key) at the point where the limbs meet the stock. See the photo below. However many crossbows don't necessarily have such an option. However if it does, now is a good time to use it.
If the poundage is low enough the bowstring should be significantly less taut and more easy to remove. Skip to Step Three if you were able to do this. If the bowstring is still very taut, you are going to need a bow press, in which case go to Step Two.
Note - Do not remove the limbs entirely. You only want to reduce the poundage, not remove the bow limbs entirely.
Step One B - Use a Dummy Bowstring.
I am adding this as an optional way to reduce the poundage. This is a method you can do if you don't have a bow press. It is a bit more of an unorthodox method, which is why I am making this section in different colours of text, to note that people should use caution when using this method. This method only works on crossbows however. This method won't work on a regular compound bow unless you also have a tillering stick (totally different topic, tillering sticks are used by bowyers during the tillering process, but that is something to talk about another day).
What you do is get a nice long bowstring that is strong enough for your crossbow and place it in a loop going around the axles, tying the ends together in a Reef Knot (aka, a Square Knot). It should be completely slack and extra long so that the string can reach about 3/4s or 4/5ths of the way to the cocking mechanism without even pulling.
Then you pull back the dummy bowstring the extra 1/4 or 1/5th to a cocking position on your crossbow, thus causing your normal bowstring to now become slack - and thus make it easier to remove or adjust.
When you are later ready to remove the dummy bowstring, simply pull back on the string with your hand to make it tight, hold on, release the trigger and hold it down, and then slowly let down until it is completely slack again. Loosen and remove the Reef Knot, keep the dummy bowstring for the next time you might need it.
Step Two - Place the Crossbow in a Bow Press and Tighten.
If you cannot reduce the poundage then you are probably going to need a bow press. Pretty much a necessity with a lot of modern crossbows. If you decide to use this method it is probably best you skip Step One entirely.
I recently wrote a post about Five Ways to Make a Homemade Bow Press, which I recommend reading as it is certainly cheaper to just build a bow press than go out and try to find / buy one.
The trick about bow presses is that you might only need it the one time. So it doesn't really make any sense to buy a $200 bow press just to use it one time.
Once tightened, your bowstring should be slack and ready to be removed.
Step Three - Remove the Bowstring completely or partially.
See the loop on the cam in the 3rd photo? Not the loops that fit on the axle of the limbs, but the one which loops like a 9 on to the middle of the cam itself. Start by removing that and unwind or untangle it from anything.
Depending on the situation you might only need to partially remove the bowstring. If this is the case, awesome. It should be a fairly simple task of removing one section of the bowstring, rewrapping it around the cam, and replacing the loop.
eg. If you can get away with leaving parts of the bowstring still fed through the stock, good, just leave that in place. Basically if you can leave much of it already in place, please do. Less work for later.
The cam loop should always be the first thing you remove, and the last thing you put back in place.
Step Four - Carefully Place the New Bowstring.
Note that I said "New Bowstring". The steps described on this page work for either resetting your old string or adding a new one. This is a good point to decide whether you want to keep your old bowstring, or use a new one. If there is heavy or medium fraying on your bowstring, probably time for a new one. Minor barely noticeable fraying? Not such a big deal. Crossbow bowstrings are rated for many multiple times the poundage of the actual crossbow. If one strand snaps it is not biggie. It is when multiple have snapped that you need to start worrying. (Sort of like the front and back brakes on a bicycle, ideally both should work - but if one doesn't work then the other set of brakes should save your life.)
Okay, so this is the tricky part. Modern compound crossbows do not make this part easy.
Step Five - Loosen the Bow Press or Retighten the Poundage.
Really depends which steps you did, Step 1 or Step 2 or both. Or Step 1 B. Whatever.
Once your crossbow is out of the bow press / back to its original poundage you should find a safe place to fire a few shots with it (with actual crossbow bolts this time) to make sure everything is in good working order.
Step Six - Never Dryfire a Compound Crossbow Ever Again.
Probably the most important step.
The correct / safe way to uncock a crossbow is to load a bolt and fire a shot into a target (or into a sandbag, a good patch of dirt with no rocks, etc). Never dryfire it.
Even if a manufacturer is bragging about how great and durable their crossbows are, you should never ever dry fire one. You are just asking to be the exception, the one person who has theirs break. Don't be a dumbass and don't make yourself into a statistic.
This is one of the reasons I really like Excalibur Crossbows - they use recurve limbs instead of cams. If the bowstring ever comes off, then you can more easily place it back on. Easy to fix, super powerful.
The whole point of compound crossbows is to make them more compact, but to me I would rather have something that is easy to repair. As someone who makes my own crossbows, they are also easier to build if they are straight or recurved limbs, with no cams.
Note to Self
Sometime in the future I should try making a double limbed crossbow (similar to a Penobscot bow). That should be fun.
Lately I keep thinking of kewl science fair projects I could do with my son in the future when he is older. I think that would be an interesting science fair project... not sure if schools would appreciate kids bringing crossbows to school for a science fair however, even if it was a bizarre looking Penobscot-style crossbow.
Considering how schools already have so many easily upset snowflakes these days, I can only imagine what it will be like 10 years from now.
Probably should build a catapult or trebuchet instead. That would be okay. Or maybe a ballista, like the Roman style ballista below. Oooooo!
So I normally don't fix crossbows and I made the mistake of mentioning it to my wife, and she vetoed the idea (besides the point I already have 3 crossbows in the house and have a hobby of building them). Apparently she puts her foot down on having any more crossbows in the house. My limit is 3. No more than that.
Below are several photos they sent me of the crossbow which had been dryfired.
So I might not be able to fix it myself, but I can certainly provide instructions for HOW TO FIX IT and that way the owner can fix it themselves using the instructions below.
How to Reset the Bowstring a Dryfired Crossbow
Or... How to Remove an Old Bowstring and Add a New Bowstring on a Crossbow
Honestly the steps below work for both.
Step One - Reduce the Poundage, if possible.
On a compound bow there is typically a way to reduce the poundage. You do this with a Allen key (aka Hex key) at the point where the limbs meet the stock. See the photo below. However many crossbows don't necessarily have such an option. However if it does, now is a good time to use it.
If the poundage is low enough the bowstring should be significantly less taut and more easy to remove. Skip to Step Three if you were able to do this. If the bowstring is still very taut, you are going to need a bow press, in which case go to Step Two.
Note - Do not remove the limbs entirely. You only want to reduce the poundage, not remove the bow limbs entirely.
Step One B - Use a Dummy Bowstring.
I am adding this as an optional way to reduce the poundage. This is a method you can do if you don't have a bow press. It is a bit more of an unorthodox method, which is why I am making this section in different colours of text, to note that people should use caution when using this method. This method only works on crossbows however. This method won't work on a regular compound bow unless you also have a tillering stick (totally different topic, tillering sticks are used by bowyers during the tillering process, but that is something to talk about another day).
Then you pull back the dummy bowstring the extra 1/4 or 1/5th to a cocking position on your crossbow, thus causing your normal bowstring to now become slack - and thus make it easier to remove or adjust.
When you are later ready to remove the dummy bowstring, simply pull back on the string with your hand to make it tight, hold on, release the trigger and hold it down, and then slowly let down until it is completely slack again. Loosen and remove the Reef Knot, keep the dummy bowstring for the next time you might need it.
Step Two - Place the Crossbow in a Bow Press and Tighten.
If you cannot reduce the poundage then you are probably going to need a bow press. Pretty much a necessity with a lot of modern crossbows. If you decide to use this method it is probably best you skip Step One entirely.
I recently wrote a post about Five Ways to Make a Homemade Bow Press, which I recommend reading as it is certainly cheaper to just build a bow press than go out and try to find / buy one.
The trick about bow presses is that you might only need it the one time. So it doesn't really make any sense to buy a $200 bow press just to use it one time.
Once tightened, your bowstring should be slack and ready to be removed.
 |
| An example of a homemade bow press that works on crossbows. |
Step Three - Remove the Bowstring completely or partially.
See the loop on the cam in the 3rd photo? Not the loops that fit on the axle of the limbs, but the one which loops like a 9 on to the middle of the cam itself. Start by removing that and unwind or untangle it from anything.
Depending on the situation you might only need to partially remove the bowstring. If this is the case, awesome. It should be a fairly simple task of removing one section of the bowstring, rewrapping it around the cam, and replacing the loop.
eg. If you can get away with leaving parts of the bowstring still fed through the stock, good, just leave that in place. Basically if you can leave much of it already in place, please do. Less work for later.
The cam loop should always be the first thing you remove, and the last thing you put back in place.
Step Four - Carefully Place the New Bowstring.
Note that I said "New Bowstring". The steps described on this page work for either resetting your old string or adding a new one. This is a good point to decide whether you want to keep your old bowstring, or use a new one. If there is heavy or medium fraying on your bowstring, probably time for a new one. Minor barely noticeable fraying? Not such a big deal. Crossbow bowstrings are rated for many multiple times the poundage of the actual crossbow. If one strand snaps it is not biggie. It is when multiple have snapped that you need to start worrying. (Sort of like the front and back brakes on a bicycle, ideally both should work - but if one doesn't work then the other set of brakes should save your life.)
Okay, so this is the tricky part. Modern compound crossbows do not make this part easy.
- Start with the axle loops.
- Feed the bowstring through the gap in the stock.
- Following a diagram if possible, correctly rewrap the bowstring around the cams. If you don't have a diagram, find some good high resolution photos of your model of crossbow and then follow the setup there and match it exactly.
- Double check that everything is correctly in place before proceeding to the next steps.
- Place the cam loops last. Depending on the bow press you are using, you may want to place the hardest to reach one first. Sometimes bow presses are designed in a way that makes it annoying to reach one of them. This way when you place the last cam loop it should be easy to reach.
- Triple check everything is correctly in place.
Step Five - Loosen the Bow Press or Retighten the Poundage.
Really depends which steps you did, Step 1 or Step 2 or both. Or Step 1 B. Whatever.
Once your crossbow is out of the bow press / back to its original poundage you should find a safe place to fire a few shots with it (with actual crossbow bolts this time) to make sure everything is in good working order.
Step Six - Never Dryfire a Compound Crossbow Ever Again.
Probably the most important step.
The correct / safe way to uncock a crossbow is to load a bolt and fire a shot into a target (or into a sandbag, a good patch of dirt with no rocks, etc). Never dryfire it.
Even if a manufacturer is bragging about how great and durable their crossbows are, you should never ever dry fire one. You are just asking to be the exception, the one person who has theirs break. Don't be a dumbass and don't make yourself into a statistic.
This is one of the reasons I really like Excalibur Crossbows - they use recurve limbs instead of cams. If the bowstring ever comes off, then you can more easily place it back on. Easy to fix, super powerful.
The whole point of compound crossbows is to make them more compact, but to me I would rather have something that is easy to repair. As someone who makes my own crossbows, they are also easier to build if they are straight or recurved limbs, with no cams.
Note to Self
Sometime in the future I should try making a double limbed crossbow (similar to a Penobscot bow). That should be fun.
Lately I keep thinking of kewl science fair projects I could do with my son in the future when he is older. I think that would be an interesting science fair project... not sure if schools would appreciate kids bringing crossbows to school for a science fair however, even if it was a bizarre looking Penobscot-style crossbow.
Considering how schools already have so many easily upset snowflakes these days, I can only imagine what it will be like 10 years from now.
Probably should build a catapult or trebuchet instead. That would be okay. Or maybe a ballista, like the Roman style ballista below. Oooooo!
Homemade Crossbow - Finished Stage 3
Below is my finished crossbow, made of oak with red mahogany stain, sisal bowstring, jute and steel stirrup that doubles as a bipod, trigger mechanism made out of poplar dowels.
I am still fine tuning the bolts I am using (Stage 4), but will be back with more photos sometime when I have them looking pretty.
I have already purchased the wood for my 2nd crossbow, which will be bigger and more powerful.
I am still fine tuning the bolts I am using (Stage 4), but will be back with more photos sometime when I have them looking pretty.
I have already purchased the wood for my 2nd crossbow, which will be bigger and more powerful.
Homemade Crossbow - Stages 3 and 4 in progress
I decided to skip the shellac and use a Red Mahogany polyurethane stain instead. It gives the crossbow a very different colour.
I also stained the crossbow bolts too - I have swapped out the shorter thicker crossbow bolts I made earlier for longer thinner crossbow bolts made from a 5/16th poplar dowel.
A couple days ago I purchased arrowheads from Basically Bows Archery (940 Queen Street East, Toronto) and the biggest arrowheads they had were too small to fit my earlier crossbow bolts because the bolts were too thick. To make them fit in the future I will need to shave down the arrowtips on the shaft so the arrowhead can fit on there, but since I am impatient I decided to get a smaller dowel and just make new bolts that fit the arrowheads.
I also decided to make the bolts longer this time around, which should hopefully lead to even more accuracy.
While I was at Basically Bows Archery I also purchased feathers which I will cut and trim to make the fletching and old fashioned arrow glue, which you melt using a flame before applying to either the arrowheads or feathers. I am only planning to use it for the arrowheads. I will be using superglue for the fletching. Total cost was $26.95.
I also stained the crossbow bolts too - I have swapped out the shorter thicker crossbow bolts I made earlier for longer thinner crossbow bolts made from a 5/16th poplar dowel.
A couple days ago I purchased arrowheads from Basically Bows Archery (940 Queen Street East, Toronto) and the biggest arrowheads they had were too small to fit my earlier crossbow bolts because the bolts were too thick. To make them fit in the future I will need to shave down the arrowtips on the shaft so the arrowhead can fit on there, but since I am impatient I decided to get a smaller dowel and just make new bolts that fit the arrowheads.
I also decided to make the bolts longer this time around, which should hopefully lead to even more accuracy.
While I was at Basically Bows Archery I also purchased feathers which I will cut and trim to make the fletching and old fashioned arrow glue, which you melt using a flame before applying to either the arrowheads or feathers. I am only planning to use it for the arrowheads. I will be using superglue for the fletching. Total cost was $26.95.
Making a Homemade Crossbow - Stage 2 Complete
This is a continuation of my Making a Homemade Crossbow project that I have been doing this winter.
STAGE 2
Stage 2A was to make a working trigger mechanism.
Stage 2B was to make a working stirrup so it is easier to load the crossbow in a hurry.
As you can see in the photo below I have completed both halves of Stage 2. The stirrup is made of a single piece of 1/4 inch thick steel rod, bent into a V and then covered with Jute (a type of cotton similar to what is used for making burlap) which I knotted roughly every 5th loop so it would not come undone easily. The bottom of the stirrup is a thick / strong piece of woven jute, so that I can step on it and pull up on the bowstring to load the crossbow.
To keep everything in place I corked the end of the stirrup with two cube pieces of oak with 1/4 inch holes drilled in them, and then finished it off with clear plastic hockey tape wrapped around it many times so it won't come off.
Today I tested it several times shooting at a target 18 feet away and it has perfect accuracy at that range, despite the fact I am using unfletched wooden crossbow bolts. I have yet to test this crossbow at longer distances.
The stirrup can be bent in other directions and can even used as a bipod (which improves accuracy due to extra stability), or as a rest so you can prop up the crossbow on a surface.
Stage 3 will be to "beautify the crossbow" - using sandpaper, fine sandpaper and eventually shellac.
Stage 4 will be to create several small wooden crossbow bolts, complete with feather fletching and steel arrowheads. I may decide to shellac and beautify the crossbow bolts too.
As you can see at this point the crossbow bolts are made, but are not fletched and don't have arrowheads yet. I will probably be purchasing the arrowheads from Basically Bows Archery at 940 Queen St. East, Toronto. I may purchase the feather fletching there too.
Stage 5 will be to make a wall rack so it can sit on the wall as an objet d'art. Because frankly I am not planning to do anything with this beyond testing it out and maybe shooting at cardboard boxes. (See my notes below about making a larger version.)
I might also give this crossbow a name (Stage 6?), but I haven't decided upon any possible names. Feel free to make suggestions by leaving a comment below.
My 45# Bear Grizzly traditional recurve bow does have a name, Seahawk, and I have also given a name to my 36# hybrid pyramid bow, Ramses, which was made by Toronto bowyer Mike Meusel.
Anyway, I will be back again soon homefully with Stages 3 and 4 finished. (I might skip ahead to Stage 4.)
STAGE 2
Stage 2A was to make a working trigger mechanism.
Stage 2B was to make a working stirrup so it is easier to load the crossbow in a hurry.
As you can see in the photo below I have completed both halves of Stage 2. The stirrup is made of a single piece of 1/4 inch thick steel rod, bent into a V and then covered with Jute (a type of cotton similar to what is used for making burlap) which I knotted roughly every 5th loop so it would not come undone easily. The bottom of the stirrup is a thick / strong piece of woven jute, so that I can step on it and pull up on the bowstring to load the crossbow.
To keep everything in place I corked the end of the stirrup with two cube pieces of oak with 1/4 inch holes drilled in them, and then finished it off with clear plastic hockey tape wrapped around it many times so it won't come off.
Today I tested it several times shooting at a target 18 feet away and it has perfect accuracy at that range, despite the fact I am using unfletched wooden crossbow bolts. I have yet to test this crossbow at longer distances.
The stirrup can be bent in other directions and can even used as a bipod (which improves accuracy due to extra stability), or as a rest so you can prop up the crossbow on a surface.
Stage 3 will be to "beautify the crossbow" - using sandpaper, fine sandpaper and eventually shellac.
Stage 4 will be to create several small wooden crossbow bolts, complete with feather fletching and steel arrowheads. I may decide to shellac and beautify the crossbow bolts too.
As you can see at this point the crossbow bolts are made, but are not fletched and don't have arrowheads yet. I will probably be purchasing the arrowheads from Basically Bows Archery at 940 Queen St. East, Toronto. I may purchase the feather fletching there too.
Stage 5 will be to make a wall rack so it can sit on the wall as an objet d'art. Because frankly I am not planning to do anything with this beyond testing it out and maybe shooting at cardboard boxes. (See my notes below about making a larger version.)
I might also give this crossbow a name (Stage 6?), but I haven't decided upon any possible names. Feel free to make suggestions by leaving a comment below.
My 45# Bear Grizzly traditional recurve bow does have a name, Seahawk, and I have also given a name to my 36# hybrid pyramid bow, Ramses, which was made by Toronto bowyer Mike Meusel.
Anyway, I will be back again soon homefully with Stages 3 and 4 finished. (I might skip ahead to Stage 4.)
Homemade Aluminum Crossbow
But hey, I can still give credit where credit is due.
This particular design works using a lever mechanism in which the person pulls back on the read of the stock and uses the leverage to pull the bowstring back into the cocked position.
It also uses a more modern trigger mechanism - whereas my homemade crossbow uses a traditional design that was commonly used during the middle ages.
And then there is the obviously differences, wood (oak) vs cast aluminum and PVC.
Regardless of the method or materials used, make certain the poundage of the crossbow is legal for hunting if you are intending to hunt with your homemade crossbow.
Making a Homemade Crossbow
My woodworking project this winter has been an experiment in how to make a homemade crossbow. Below are some photos of the project as it is progressing.
Stage 1 was to make the basic crossbow shape, including the handle / stock, the bow limbs, and the bowstring which I made out of braided sisal. (Sisal is stronger than cotton or jute, but not as strong as silk or dacron. Sisal is more readily available which is why I chose it. It also doesn't stretch and if it does snap, it is cheap to replace.)
The wood used is oak.
Stage 2 was to make a working trigger and stirrup (to pull and cock it faster). As you can see below I have completed part 2A of Stage 2, but have yet to make the stirrup (part 2B). The trigger mechanism is pretty simple and follows a centuries old crossbow design.
The wooden dowels used for making the trigger is poplar.
While testing the trigger I shot a pencil (for lack of a crossbow bolt being handy) several times at a cardboard box. It was surprisingly accurate and powerful. (It takes two hands to draw the bowstring back to the trigger position so I guess I should not be so surprised it is so powerful.)
Safety Note - Due to the trigger design you cannot set it on a table while cocked, the trigger will be pushed upwards and set off the string. I did not discover this the hard way, I was smart enough to realize it before setting it down.
Stage 3 will be to "beautify the crossbow" - namely sandpaper, fine sandpaper and eventually shellac.
Stage 4 will be to create several small wooden crossbow bolts, complete with feather fletching and steel arrowheads. I may decide to shellac and beautify the crossbow bolts too.
Stage 5 will be to make a wall rack so it can sit on the wall as an objet d'art. Because frankly I am not planning to do anything with this beyond testing it out and maybe shooting at cardboard boxes. (See my notes below about making a larger version.)
TOOLS USED SO FAR
Band Saw
Drill (various bit sizes)
Draw Knife
Carving Knife
Hand Chisels
Hand Saw
Philips Screwdriver
Sandpaper
DESIGN NOTES
I have not used any formal designs made by someone else. I have relied entirely on photographs of older style crossbows and then designed it as I saw fit.
Seeing how well it is working I am already planning to make a larger / more powerful version. In which case my biggest question will be "how big" because obviously I still need to be able to draw it back and cock it. Building one with a crank or lever would require significantly more research on my part in order to make a working prototype.
Thus I consider the above crossbow to be a smaller scale prototype of my future crossbow, one that will still be hand drawn and cocked, but more powerful. I am not sure if I will use oak for the bow next time. I might use maple or something more flexible instead.
HUNTING NOTES
With respect to hunting with a crossbow you need to be using a minimum poundage to hunt with a crossbow. My crossbow above would not be legal for hunting because it is obviously not powerful enough. However that doesn't mean a person could not make a more powerful homemade crossbow, one that fulfills the minimum poundage requirements, and then use it for hunting.
Build it, practice with it so you become really good with it, get your hunting license, and you can legally hunt with a homemade crossbow as long as it fulfills all the requirements.
Stage 1 was to make the basic crossbow shape, including the handle / stock, the bow limbs, and the bowstring which I made out of braided sisal. (Sisal is stronger than cotton or jute, but not as strong as silk or dacron. Sisal is more readily available which is why I chose it. It also doesn't stretch and if it does snap, it is cheap to replace.)
The wood used is oak.
Stage 2 was to make a working trigger and stirrup (to pull and cock it faster). As you can see below I have completed part 2A of Stage 2, but have yet to make the stirrup (part 2B). The trigger mechanism is pretty simple and follows a centuries old crossbow design.
The wooden dowels used for making the trigger is poplar.
While testing the trigger I shot a pencil (for lack of a crossbow bolt being handy) several times at a cardboard box. It was surprisingly accurate and powerful. (It takes two hands to draw the bowstring back to the trigger position so I guess I should not be so surprised it is so powerful.)
Safety Note - Due to the trigger design you cannot set it on a table while cocked, the trigger will be pushed upwards and set off the string. I did not discover this the hard way, I was smart enough to realize it before setting it down.
Stage 3 will be to "beautify the crossbow" - namely sandpaper, fine sandpaper and eventually shellac.
Stage 4 will be to create several small wooden crossbow bolts, complete with feather fletching and steel arrowheads. I may decide to shellac and beautify the crossbow bolts too.
Stage 5 will be to make a wall rack so it can sit on the wall as an objet d'art. Because frankly I am not planning to do anything with this beyond testing it out and maybe shooting at cardboard boxes. (See my notes below about making a larger version.)
TOOLS USED SO FAR
Band Saw
Drill (various bit sizes)
Draw Knife
Carving Knife
Hand Chisels
Hand Saw
Philips Screwdriver
Sandpaper
DESIGN NOTES
I have not used any formal designs made by someone else. I have relied entirely on photographs of older style crossbows and then designed it as I saw fit.
Seeing how well it is working I am already planning to make a larger / more powerful version. In which case my biggest question will be "how big" because obviously I still need to be able to draw it back and cock it. Building one with a crank or lever would require significantly more research on my part in order to make a working prototype.
Thus I consider the above crossbow to be a smaller scale prototype of my future crossbow, one that will still be hand drawn and cocked, but more powerful. I am not sure if I will use oak for the bow next time. I might use maple or something more flexible instead.
HUNTING NOTES
With respect to hunting with a crossbow you need to be using a minimum poundage to hunt with a crossbow. My crossbow above would not be legal for hunting because it is obviously not powerful enough. However that doesn't mean a person could not make a more powerful homemade crossbow, one that fulfills the minimum poundage requirements, and then use it for hunting.
Build it, practice with it so you become really good with it, get your hunting license, and you can legally hunt with a homemade crossbow as long as it fulfills all the requirements.
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